"Slabolishous is a compelling single-pitch trad climb tucked below Twin Pillar in Lyons, Colorado. With a challenging pull over a roof bulge and careful gear placements on finger-sized pieces, it offers an engaging test of technique and nerve."
Slabolishous offers an intriguing, single-pitch trad climb set against the rugged terrain of the South Fork of St. Vrain Canyon near Lyons, Colorado. This 60-foot route begins with straightforward slab climbing that eases you into the venture. Soon, a roof bulge comes into focus, presenting the climb’s defining challenge: a powerful pull over a compact overhang that demands both commitment and careful gear placement. The rock here is textured and fairly solid, although the large block that anchors the crux move carries an uneasy weight—you’ll want to test your holds carefully and remain deliberate.
The approach to Slabolishous is accessible, with well-trodden paths guiding you through the canyon’s forested descent. The sound of the nearby rushing St. Vrain River adds a dynamic soundtrack that both encourages forward momentum and calls for respect to nature’s unpredictability. The route itself sits directly below the imposing Twin Pillar formation, a recognizable landmark that frames the climb and offers a sense of place within the larger St. Vrain Canyons system.
Protection is straightforward but demands attentiveness. Being a traditional climb with a short bolted section through the roof, the sequence requires finger-sized gear to secure a safe passage before clipping quickdraws to the bolts embedded in the roof section. It's a route that suits climbers confident in placing small pro and managing a brief, delicate crux rather than those seeking long endurance pitches.
Slabolishous is rated 5.8 PG13, reflecting a moderate grade with a bit of a spicy move through the roof. The looseness around the big block crux suggests a mental edge, emphasizing caution without turning it into an ordeal. The descent is simple: from the two-bolt anchor just above the roof, a single 60-meter rappel brings you back to solid ground swiftly and efficiently.
If you plan to climb on a warm day, the route’s southern-facing wall benefits from morning shade but catches sun by midday, so starting early keeps you comfortable. The area’s elevation just over 7,000 feet means hydration here is critical—thin mountain air can sneak its way into your awareness alongside physical exertion. Good shoes with sticky rubber and steady hands are your allies here.
Though it’s brief, this climb invites a hands-on encounter with the character of St. Vrain’s granite. Whether you’re brushing off your gear-placement skills or searching for a solid challenge close to Lyons, Slabolishous gives you a snapshot of the canyon’s adventurous spirit with an approachable technical edge. Mind the loose block on the crux, place your fingers with care, and enjoy the brief but thrilling surge over the roof that seals the climb.
The large block involved in the crux move may not be solidly attached—test all holds before fully weighting them. Avoid cutting left around the roof to skip the crux as it may lead to unprotected, unstable terrain.
Approach early to benefit from morning shade on the southern-facing wall.
Place finger-sized cams carefully before committing to the roof pull.
Check the stability of the large block near the crux before trusting it.
Hydrate well—elevation and exertion can quickly sap your energy.
Bring a standard trad rack with emphasis on finger-sized protection and a few draws for the roof bolts. A 60m rope is sufficient for the rappel from the two-bolt anchor.
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