"Slab Alley offers nearly 1,000 feet of classic trad climbing across six pitches of technical granite slabs and runnels in Squamish’s Apron sector. A steady test of footwork and mental focus, this route rewards climbers who value precision and thoughtful protection."
Slab Alley stands as a true test of balance and finesse within Squamish's legendary Apron sector. This six-pitch traditional climb stretches nearly 1,000 feet up the imposing granite walls beneath The Chief, carving a route through crisp slabs and slick runnels that dare you to read each move carefully. The approach places you just below the trail ascending towards Diedre, a familiar landmark for climbers in this area, with the option to begin at a 5.6 traverse on Banana Peel before pushing onward until the two-bolt anchor signals the real start.
From this spot, climbers advance upward into the heart of the slab, which bulges with subtle angles that challenge your footwork and mental focus. Three carefully spaced bolts offer protection here, but much of the security comes from well-placed trad gear, demanding a confident rack and steady nerves. The pitch culminates at an anchor hidden just to the right of the bulge, a spot that rewards patience and technical skill.
Pitch three curves left, clipping a single bolt as it tracks along a narrow, deep water runnel. The smooth granite channels encourage delicate smearing, the rock’s cool surface under your fingertips a constant reminder of the precision required. Belaying at a lone tree provides a moment to take in the soaring views over Squamish and to steel yourself for the next push.
Continuing upward, the fourth pitch snakes past more slab and runnels, threading through bolts that offer aid in the trickier sections but still leave room for powerful face climbing. The fixed anchors here are a welcome sight after these sustained movements, signaling the climb is nearing its final challenges.
The sixth and final pitch runs directly to the tree-covered ledges beneath Boomstick Crack, peppered with a handful of bolts to protect the more exposed moves. The exposed slabbed face holds a steady rhythm but doesn’t relent in requiring attention to every foothold.
When your ascent is complete, the descent is straightforward but demands attentiveness. Walk off via the Broadway Ledge trail, a well-worn path that gradually eases you back into the forest and the base of The Apron. For those eager to extend the adventure, several routes on the Upper Apron connect from here, offering options to explore more of Squamish’s granite playground.
Gear-wise, this climb rewards a balanced rack—six bolts per pitch will keep you secure, but the runnel sections and traverse call for solid placements in sizes 3 to 4 camming devices. The rock is generally excellent, though certain pockets demand extra care as they offer trickier placements.
Slab Alley captures the spirit of Squamish climbing: exposed granite, sustained technical climbing, and a route that feels as much mental as physical. Timing your climb during the morning or early afternoon helps, as the slab warms quickly and the sun can intensify the granite’s glare. Bear in mind that wetter seasons can make the slabs slippery; dry conditions amplify friction and safety.
Whether you’re ticking off one more classic on your Squamish itinerary or searching for a climb that sharpens your slab technique, Slab Alley invites a measured approach. The rock’s character pushes you to carefully read your moves, respect protection placements, and savor each pitch. Embrace the steady rhythm of the climb, the natural dialogue between climber and stone, and prepare to emerge with a deeper appreciation for Squamish’s understated technical challenges.
Watch your footing on the slab bulges and deep runnels, especially when rock is damp or covered with loose grit. The protection is solid but sometimes spaced, so stay mindful of runout sections and maintain a steady, controlled pace.
Start early to avoid afternoon heat amplifying the slab’s glare.
Bring high-friction climbing shoes for the delicate slab and runnel sections.
Check weather reports—wet slabs become dangerously slick and unsafe.
Descend via Broadway Ledge for a secure and well-marked exit route.
The route features no more than six bolts per pitch paired with traditional protection. Bring larger cams in sizes 3 and 4 for the first pitch’s tricky traverse if you prefer added security. Overall, gear placements are reliable but require confidence in slab techniques.
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