"Sky Dancing challenges climbers with a demanding friction arete in Squamish’s Smoke Bluffs. Its high first bolt and technical slab moves push precision, making it a compelling test for those honing delicate footwork and mental focus."
Sky Dancing stands as an uncompromising sport climb clinging to the arete right beside the famed Dreams of Passion in Squamish’s Smoke Bluffs area. At 75 feet, this single-pitch route offers a concentrated burst of technical friction climbing punctuated by well-spaced bolts that demand precision and commitment. From the moment your fingers brush the textured rock, you're drawn into a challenging rhythm where balance and delicate footwork govern every move. The opening section is where many will find the climbing’s true edge: a subtle slab route veering left, requiring confident smearing and a keen sense for friction. This variation notably raises the difficulty and the mental stakes, especially since the first bolt sits at a daunting height, now unreachable for an easy pre-clip after the stump that once aided this maneuver vanished.
Below this crucial clip point, the rock face drops away sharply, creating real consequences for a fall early in the route. This makes stick-clipping highly advisable; climbers who miss it may face a substantial ground-fall risk within the opening ten feet. Alternatively, some attempt a mantle move up the nearby MCM crack to reach the bolt—an option demanding both technique and caution. Beyond the crux, the route eases into a sequence of delicate friction moves along the arete, weaving slabby sections where smaller gear, like nuts or tiny cams, fit snugly in the discreet crack system alongside the climb.
The anchor shared with Dreams of Passion ensures a secure and familiar top-out, making descent straightforward and safe. The rock itself is typical of the Smoke Bluffs: moderately featured granite offering sticky friction that rewards attention to balance over brute force. Atmospheric and exposed, Sky Dancing beckons climbers who thrive on technical, thoughtful climbing rather than sheer power, making it a standout on Ronin’s Corner.
Practical considerations shape the approach and experience. Accessing Ronin's Corner involves a short but occasionally slippery approach trail from the main Smoke Bluffs parking area, weaving through a quiet forest patch before rising onto the granite outcrop. This route thrives best during dry, cooler months when the rock’s grip is at its peak and afternoon shade cools the face. Climbers should carry a moderate rack with a few nuts and small cams to augment bolt placement, plus a long stick-clip setup to manage the high first bolt safely. Given the possibility of a tough early fall, a knowledgeable belayer and a solid pre-climb check are essential.
Sky Dancing isn’t for those seeking a casual ascent—it offers a pulse-quickening, precise challenge in one of Squamish’s most respected sport climbing zones. With moderate star ratings reflecting its specialized appeal, this climb shines as a proving ground for developing slab and friction skills while embracing the thrill of exposed leads. Whether you come to experience its technical demands or to add a rewarding 5.10c to your logbook, Sky Dancing stands firm, ready to test your nerve and finesse in a stunning natural setting.
Take extra caution when clipping the first bolt — the absence of the pre-clip stump means falling here could result in a significant ground fall. A reliable stick-clip and experienced belayer are essential. Weather can quickly affect friction, so avoid climbing when the rock is damp.
Stick-clip the first bolt to avoid a risky ground fall.
Consider taking the left slab variation with caution—it’s the crux for many.
Approach via the main Smoke Bluffs trail; watch for slippery sections after rain.
Afternoon shade on the face makes for comfortable climbing during warmer months.
Expect to use a stick-clip for the high first bolt as the original stump to pre-clip is gone. Carry a few small cams or nuts for protecting the subtle crack between slabs. Shared two-bolt anchor at the top works well for rappelling.
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