"Sh*t Hounds at Sundog Buttress blends dynamic crack climbs with a technical bolted face in an isolated Yukon canyon. This single-pitch trad route challenges climbers with precise hand jams and delicate slab moves, anchored by a secure bolt-protected slab and a bolted rappel station."
Carving a path up Sundog Buttress’s striking Golden Canyon wall, Sh*t Hounds puts climbers face-to-rock with a gritty blend of crack and face climbing that demands both precision and persistence. This single-pitch, 80-foot route kicks off with a clean corner crack or, for those seeking a steeper challenge, a direct bolted line rated 5.10+. As you ascend the pedestal, the rock shifts beneath your hands, shifting between solid hand jams and delicate edges that test your footwork and body positioning. The route’s unique zigzag of hand cracks feels alive beneath your fingers, snaking upward toward a slab that stands as a subtle bottleneck guarded by a lone bolt.
Moving past this bolt, the climb shifts again, introducing a left-leaning finger crack that requires careful technical moves while your feet search for small holds on the slabby terrain. Each move here blends strategy with raw execution—small edges dare you to trust them, while the finger crack invites you to flow upward, weaving tension and release in equal measure. The journey culminates at a bolted anchor with rap rings perched at the back of a small ledge, where you can pause to absorb the quiet expanse of the Yukon’s rugged wilderness.
Located at 60.9°N in Canada’s Yukon Territory, Sundog Buttress perches high in a wild section of Golden Canyon, surrounded by a landscape that feels remote and fiercely untouched. The climb’s position demands efficient gear handling—a single rack from .4 to 3, augmented by the bolt on the slab, conveniently covers protection needs without overburdening your pack. Dress prepared for swift temperature shifts and variable wall conditions, especially since the route faces mixed sun and shade throughout the day, making morning climbs preferable for firm holds.
Although the approach is straightforward, your path threads through open terrain with few natural markers, so pinpoint navigation is essential. After topping out, descending via rappel from the bolted anchor is the safest and most efficient method, avoiding loose scree and brush below. For adventurers ready to blend technical climbing with the wild spirit of the Yukon, Sh*t Hounds rewards with a direct, engaging experience—one where rock meets resolve in a pure expression of trad climbing.
Be cautious of the slab section where protection consists of only one bolt; precise foot placement is critical to prevent slips. The descent rappel requires careful rope management to avoid snagging on the ledge behind the anchor.
Start early to take advantage of morning sun and firmer rock conditions.
Use hand protection tape for sustained jamming sections.
Double-check your rappel gear before descending; the anchor is bolted but exposed.
Map your approach precisely—trail markers are scarce and terrain open.
Bring a single rack from .4 to 3, alongside a harness capable of clipping the fixed bolt on the slab. Minimal but precise protection suffices for a confident lead.
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