HomeClimbingShake 'n' Bake

Shake 'n' Bake: Classic Trad Crack Climbing on Avalon Peninsula

Avalon Peninsula, Canada
body crack
layback
single pitch
trad protection
Avalon Peninsula
Atlantic coast
moderate crack climb
Length: 40 ft
Type: Trad, TR
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Shake 'n' Bake
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Shake 'n' Bake invites climbers to engage with a test of traditional crack climbing on Newfoundland’s Avalon Peninsula. This compact 40-foot pitch blends technical hand jams and layback moves, demanding focus and precision in a rugged coastal setting."

Shake 'n' Bake: Classic Trad Crack Climbing on Avalon Peninsula

Shake 'n' Bake presents an accessible yet engaging trad climb that delivers classic crack climbing right on the rugged Avalon Peninsula of Newfoundland. Beginning with a reach into a body-sized crack, this route immediately demands precise hand jams and steady footwork. As you transition into the twin crack system, you'll find yourself alternating between layback techniques and delicate crack climbs, a true test of fundamental trad skills. The rock here holds subtle textures that reward focused movement and patience. The climb’s single pitch stretches forty feet high, offering enough vertical exposure to satisfy trad enthusiasts without overwhelming newcomers.

The surrounding landscape is marked by coastal breezes carrying hints of salt and pine, while distant waves break over rocky shores, adding a rhythmic soundtrack to your ascent. The approach leads you through open, exposed terrain typical of the Avalon Peninsula, where wind can be a factor to consider in your timing. Though the climb itself is moderate at 5.9, the route requires solid protection strategy—rack sizes up to 4" are necessary, and securing your anchors demands extra cord due to the deeply set belay spots far behind the final ledge.

Despite its modest length, Shake 'n' Bake challenges you to balance technical crack moves with situational awareness in a coastal climbing environment that feels wild and unrefined. The route provides an excellent introduction for climbers sharpening their crack skills and managing traditional placements in a memorable setting. Local weather can shift quickly, so climbing on clear, calm days enhances comfort and safety. Whether you’re pushing your crack climbing limits or simply craving an authentic trad experience with a touch of Newfoundland’s coastal character, this climb offers a rewarding outing rooted in straightforward, hands-on skills.

Climber Safety

Anchors are set deep behind the ledge, meaning climbers should carry sufficient cord to safely extend their belays. The rock can feel sharp in places—handle placements and skin with care. Be wary of sudden weather changes on the exposed approach.

Route Details

TypeTrad, TR
Pitches1
Length40 feet

Local Tips

Plan your climb on calm days to minimize wind impact on the exposed approach.

Bring a rack with larger cams up to 4" to protect the wide cracks effectively.

Extra cord is necessary for the top anchors due to their deep, retreating placement.

Footwear with sticky rubber will help maintain traction on the often sharp, textured rock.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:At a 5.9, Shake 'n' Bake sits in the straightforward moderate range but carries a solid technical crux within the double crack section. The grade feels true to standard; it’s approachable for climbers comfortable with basic trad techniques but requires careful gear placement that adds mental challenge. Compared to nearby routes, it’s less strenuous physically but demands focused crack climbing skills.

Gear Requirements

A rack including protection up to 4 inches is essential. The belay anchors sit well back from the ledge, requiring extra cord to set secure top anchors.

Share Your Ascent

Upload your photos of Shake 'n' Bake and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.

Tags

body crack
layback
single pitch
trad protection
Avalon Peninsula
Atlantic coast
moderate crack climb