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Serpents et échelles: A Crisp Trad Route in Northern Quebec

Dalquier, Canada
crack climbing
slab
trad rack
single pitch
beginner-friendly
dihedral
fixed anchors
Length: 60 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Serpents et échelles
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Serpents et échelles is an approachable trad route in northern Quebec, featuring a clean crack system and a distinctive dihedral on a seasonally refreshing slab. Perfect for climbers honing their trad skills in a quiet wilderness setting."

Serpents et échelles: A Crisp Trad Route in Northern Quebec

Serpents et échelles offers a refreshingly straightforward trad climb set in the wild expanse of northern Quebec, just beyond the edges of Abitibi-Témiscamingue. This single-pitch, sixty-foot route invites climbers to engage with a clean, crack-lined slab that unfolds in a quiet, rugged corner of the Canadian wilderness. The climb begins with a series of stair-like cracks that feel almost like the climb itself is calling you upward, encouraging steady progress. Following this natural ladder, the route then veers slightly right to skirt a solitary tree before leading onto a slab that presents a notable dihedral on the left side—your guiding hand holds through this subtle but important feature.

The rock’s texture is solid and trustworthy, offering reliable protection placements that build confidence as you ascend. The protection setup is simple and efficient: a standard trad rack suffices, bolstered by two fixed bolts anchoring the top belay. This makes for an excellent introductory trad climb or a comfortable warm-up when exploring the region’s more demanding routes.

While the grade is a gentle 5.2, the climb’s pleasure comes from its quiet immersion into the raw environment—dense northern forests surround the base, their whispers carried up on cool breezes. The crisp air and the remote setting lend the climb a refreshing clarity, perfect for those who seek a solo moment of connection with the rock and nature alike.

Accessing Serpents et échelles is straightforward but requires attention to detail. The approach crosses uneven terrain typical of boreal forests, so appropriate footwear and preparation for modest bushwhacking are essential. Early season adventurers will appreciate the dry granite surfaces that warm quickly under the morning sun, while summer offers soothing shade from the tree canopy. Water sources are nearby but not abundant, so carrying ample hydration ensures you stay sharp and energized.

This route is ideal for climbers developing trad skills in a relaxed setting or for those who simply want to experience the raw white granite of northern Quebec without the complexity of multi-pitch logistics. With its clear line and reliable protection, Serpents et échelles is a reminder that great climbing doesn’t always mean extreme difficulty—sometimes it’s about the steady, deliberate rhythm of hands and feet navigating rock that feels alive beneath your touch.

Climber Safety

Watch your footing on the slab sections where moisture or moss may collect after rain. The bolts at the anchor are reliable, but the approach terrain can be uneven and slippery during wet seasons. Always double-check your gear placements on the crack to avoid any looseness.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length60 feet

Local Tips

Wear sturdy shoes with good toe sensitivity for crack climbing.

Start early to take advantage of morning sun warming the slab.

Bring enough water; there are few natural sources nearby.

Be prepared for a short bushwhack approaching the base through boreal forest.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.2
Quality
Consensus:Though the grade reads a relaxed 5.2, the climb demands attention in placing protection correctly along the crack system to stay safe. The rating feels true to form, with the dihedral providing a natural resting spot that breaks up the climb nicely. Compared to other Quebec slab climbs, it stands out for its straightforward line and accessible protection.

Gear Requirements

A single standard trad rack is sufficient for this route, complemented by two fixed bolts at the anchor. Protection opportunities follow the crack network closely and require basic to moderate rack placement skills.

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Tags

crack climbing
slab
trad rack
single pitch
beginner-friendly
dihedral
fixed anchors