"Serenity Now! presents an intense, bouldery single-pitch climb in Squamish’s Fern Hill sector. This 80-foot sport route tests finger strength and composure on awkward clips beneath a roof, perfect for climbers sharpening their power on overhung terrain."
Serenity Now! stakes its claim on the rugged walls of Fern Hill within the Mamquam FSR area, offering climbers a compact but intense challenge amid the wild landscapes of Squamish, British Columbia. This single-pitch sport route, spanning 80 feet, delivers a sustained boulder problem that demands power, precision, and mental grit. As climbers press upward, the rock’s texture talks — offering a mix of sharp crimps and sloping edges that test finger strength at every move. The climb’s setting places you against a backdrop of dense forests and mountain contours rolling distantly, while the wall itself leans into a roof section where a bolted anchor waits, but not without forcing attention to gear management and clip positioning.
Unlike long, endurance-heavy routes, Serenity Now! compresses the physical challenge into a brief, pulse-racing sequence that rewards controlled aggression and flawless technique. The bolts safeguard the effort, but their placement can feel awkward, requiring a steady calm to clip efficiently and keep upward momentum. Approaching this climb, prepare for a workout that’s as much about problem-solving and willpower as it is about raw strength. The route's bouldery nature makes it an excellent training ground for climbers eyeing more advanced movement or refining their redpoint tactics on overhung terrain.
Setting foot into this corner of Squamish, you’ll note the scent of damp evergreens mingled with fresh mountain air — a sharp counterpoint to the gritty, focused environment suspended on the wall. The area’s relative remoteness within Mamquam FSR ensures that crowds remain thin, perfect for those who relish moments of quiet concentration.
Planning your day here means coming prepared for a straightforward but gravel-dusted approach that threads through forest trails leading to the base. Gear-wise, sport climbing essentials suffice, but bring awareness to quickdraw length and clipping technique given the route's bolt placements. Early morning or late afternoon sessions work best — Fern Hill’s wall gifts climbers with a balance of shade and sunlight, tempering temperatures to preserve grip on warm days.
Safety is key on this climb: despite bolted protection, the clips demand respect and careful handling under the roof section to avoid falls. The anchor is solid but positioned under the roof, requiring careful movement when transitioning to the top. After the send, descent involves an easy scramble back down through forested footing, though the approach trail demands attention to uneven ground and occasional loose stones.
For those seeking a compact, demanding sport route that sharpens power and technical finesse amid a rugged British Columbia backdrop, Serenity Now! delivers a rewarding experience laced with manageable risks and the raw pulse of pure climbing. It’s a workout, a test, and a call to steady focus: climb smart, move bold, and let the mountain’s challenge carve its mark on your day.
Although fully bolted, clip placements under the roof can feel tricky and increase fall potential if clipped poorly. Pay close attention to footing on the approach and when moving at the anchor, where balance is required to safely finish the climb.
Practice clip technique before climbing to handle the awkward bolt placements smoothly.
Start early to catch the balance of sun and shade on the wall, especially in warmer months.
Bring quickdraws with extended slings to reduce rope drag around the roof.
Wear shoes with solid edging performance for the sharp crimps and slopers.
Bolted protection on steep rock; clips require careful execution due to awkward placements under a roof. Bolted anchor situated just beneath the roof section ensures secure top-out with attention.
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