"Selective Cut presents a gritty trad-alpine challenge on Mount Athelstan’s Gnomon, combining technical moves on polished cracks with exposed, debris-strewn corners. This 20-pitch ascent calls for steady nerves and precise gear management amid demanding alpine terrain."
Selective Cut carves an uncompromising line up the southwest face of the Gnomon, a striking spire on Mount Athelstan just north of Whistler. This demanding route stretches across 20 pitches and nearly 2,500 feet, blending exposed trad moves with alpine terrain that tests both skill and nerves. The first pitch sets the tone: a polished crack on the left side of a flared overhanging chimney, offering a sustained 5.9 crux that demands precise technique and confident footwork. The rock here gleams with smooth surfaces, each move requiring deliberate balance and focus as you edge your way up toward the chimney’s opening. Once inside, the climbing feels stark and raw, the chimney narrowing as it dares you upward.
Beyond this initial challenge, the route follows a massive hanging corner system for six pitches. This section is a study in contrast — solid rock interrupted by patches of loose debris that hint at the mountain’s restless nature. The corner itself has a steady rhythm, but the best moves, often found on slabs about five meters right of the corner, force climbers to weigh the reward of cleaner rock against the sparse protection available there. The loose rock below serves as a constant reminder to move cautiously, managing each placement with a skillful eye.
As you ascend into the upper pitches, the terrain steepens. Massive perched blocks crowd the route, demanding careful foot placement and an awareness of potential shifts underfoot. The climax reaches the summit of the Gnomon, where a 15-meter rappel is necessary to descend off the spire. From this drop point, a ridge walk connects climbers to the Lillarete route, where the journey continues toward the summit. This final stretch blends alpine hiking with technical climbing, a fitting conclusion to a complex ascent.
Preparation is key for Selective Cut. Double ropes are a must, not just for managing the length but as a safeguard against rockfall — a hazard proven by incidents on the first ascent. Protection ranges up to four inches, accommodating the variable crack sizes along the route. The approach requires solid backcountry skills, with navigation through rugged alpine terrain before even reaching the base of the climb.
Mount Athelstan’s Gnomon area is remote, rugged, and wild, offering views that stretch from dense forested valleys below to jagged peaks etched against the sky. The climb invites those ready to balance adventure with vigilance, blending moments of fluid climbing with stretches demanding patience and care. Whether you’re testing your limits on the polished crux or threading the tight line past loose blocks, Selective Cut lays out a route that rewards steady focus and a respect for its alpine setting.
Loose blocks and falling debris pose real hazards throughout, especially on the lower to mid pitches. Helmets are essential, and climbing with a partner vigilant to rockfall is critical. Approach with caution, as some sections require careful movement to avoid dislodging unstable rock.
Start early to avoid afternoon rockfall warmed by the sun.
Double ropes help reduce drag and protect against falling debris hazards.
Wear sturdy, sticky shoes for polished crack sections requiring precision.
Check weather forecasts thoroughly; the alpine exposure leaves little margin for sudden storms.
Bring gear up to 4-inch cams to handle the varied crack sizes. Double ropes are strongly recommended to manage rockfall risk, especially on the initial pitches, where loose stone remains an everyday concern.
Upload your photos of Selective Cut and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.