"This crisp second pitch above bolted routes 3, 4, and 5 at Water Slabs delivers clean slab climbing across modest but exacting terrain. Ideal for sport climbers aiming to hone delicate footwork amid Colorado’s quiet upper canyon walls."
Rising steadily within the raw contours of Water Slabs in Upper Dream Canyon, this isolated second pitch commands attention for climbers seeking a straightforward but thoughtfully engaging slab experience. The climb begins just above bolted routes 3, 4, and 5, where the rock’s muted gray face stretches clean and bare. From the shared anchors of route 3 or 4, a short rightward traverse leads you toward a distinct horn perched on the arete — an inviting hold that offers the promise of movement and momentum. Pulling onto the broad, slightly dirty slab that follows, each placement of foothold requires measured precision rather than brute strength, inviting climbers into a quiet conversation with the rock.
The face is punctuated only by fixed bolts, marking a secure path upwards amid an otherwise sparse panel, with subtle textures underfoot and the occasional crux demanding delicate balance. The slab’s angle encourages a steady pace, rewarding steady breathing and focus as the forested rim of Boulder’s rugged backcountry peeks beyond the cliff edge. At 100 feet, the pitch isn’t long, but it offers a dose of slab climbing that is both accessible and mentally engaging — here, every step and reach counts.
Approach is simple: a brief hike through upper canyon trails leads you to Water Slabs’ base, where routes converge in this well-known sector. The granite’s coarse edges demand sticky-soled shoes and a prepared mind for slab technique, while the fixed bolts provide confident protection for less bold moments. Climbers benefit from early morning ascents to avoid the warming sun that can make the slab slippery as the day matures. Once atop, the view offers a quiet, clean vantage on the surrounding boulder-studded highlands, a fitting reward for this clean, minimalistic roofline climb.
For those assembling gear, a standard sport rack with quickdraws suffices, as the bolted line removes the need for trad placements. Despite its modest star rating, this pitch offers a solid introduction to slab movement in the Colorado high country and complements the adjacent routes for a full day of varied climbing. With careful preparation and respect for the slab’s slick edges, this second pitch stands as a calm but confident invitation to test balance and calm determination in the heart of Upper Dream Canyon.
Although bolts provide solid protection, the slab surface can be slick, especially where patches collect dirt or moisture. Climbers should maintain precise foot placements and stay mindful of the exposure, as a fall could lead to sliding along the slab face. Early ascents when rock is dry improve safety and grip.
Start from the anchors on routes 3 or 4 and traverse right toward the arete horn to begin the pitch.
Wear shoes with sticky rubber to navigate the mildly dirty slab sections safely.
Plan ascents for cooler parts of the day; the slab can become slick when warmed by the sun.
Bring a standard rack of quickdraws and a 60 m rope to lower or rappel from the top anchors.
The route relies exclusively on fixed bolts for protection, requiring only quickdraws to safely ascend the slab. No additional trad gear is necessary here.
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