"Scorched offers a concentrated, technical trad challenge at Joe's Garage in New Brunswick. With a blend of jug hauling and crimp endurance, this 112-foot route demands precise footwork and strong gear placements, perfect for climbers pushing into the 5.11d range."
Scorched stands out as a gritty single-pitch trad climb within the rugged confines of Joe's Garage, perched in the Cochrane Lane Cliffs near Welsford, New Brunswick. This 112-foot route challenges climbers with sustained 5.11d moves that demand precision, strength, and mental focus. The climb begins with a straightforward 60-foot ascent along the Boulevard, offering solid holds and a rhythm that sets the pace. Then the route takes an intentional rightward turn toward Bullwhip Days Direct's first bolt, marking the start of the climb’s defining technical section.
Here, the rock becomes more demanding as you work your way rightward on generous jugs, connecting carefully clipped bolts while preparing for the crux that lies ahead. The crux involves a series of crimpy moves pushing outward to a prominent sidepull – a hold that almost dares you to test your finger strength and movement finesse. Once secured, climbers face a cascade of smaller holds that keep the momentum going upward toward a fully bolted anchor.
The protection is a blend of traditional gear and fixed bolts, allowing for a flexible rack setup. Early placements require medium to large cams (#2 to #3), protecting the starting climbing on the Boulevard, before transitioning to a bolted section where you clip with confidence. For added security, some climbers opt to supplement with small cams (.4 to .75) near a horizontal crack close to the top. A 70m rope covers the full length comfortably, avoiding any rope drag or reach issues along the traverse.
The rock faces north, offering a cool shade during warm months, making it an ideal afternoon climb when direct sun can be avoided. Welsford’s granite walls carry a slight roughness that provides excellent friction, rewarding climbers who maintain deliberate foot placements and controlled breathing. The approach is accessible with a well-maintained trail and a short hike from the parking area, lending this climb a practical appeal for climbers seeking intense movement in a manageable setting.
Scorched’s compact yet potent character makes it a favorite for those looking to push their trad climbing limits without committing to multi-pitches. The route’s blend of juggy jamming into technical crimps means climbers need a versatile skill set, balancing power and subtle technique. Plan to approach with solid stamina, finger strength, and confidence on gear placements. Hydration, proper footwear with sticky rubber, and a clear weather window are essential for a safe and enjoyable ascent.
This climb may not draw massive crowds, but it offers a compelling test for climbers ready to engage fully with the rock. As the air hums with the sounds of forest wildlife and distant river flow, your focus sharpens on the holds beneath your hands and feet, sharpening each move into a purposeful step towards the summit anchor.
Focus on solid gear placements early on the Boulevard section, as falling before the bolted climb could be serious. The rock is mostly sound but loose flakes can be encountered near the horizontal crack; a cautious approach during gear placement is recommended. Also, be vigilant about weather conditions, as wet granite becomes dangerously slick.
Start early to avoid afternoon shade at the base but benefit from cooler temperatures on the wall.
Wear shoes with sticky rubber to handle the crimpy mid-section confidently.
Double-check placements on the trad gear section before transitioning to bolts.
Hydrate adequately before the climb—there’s little natural water on the approach trail.
Bring cams up to sizes #2 or #3 for the initial Boulevard section. The rest is fully bolted, but optional small cams (.4-.75) can secure a horizontal crack near the top. A 70m rope is mandatory for smooth rope management.
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