"Scarecrow delivers a gritty crack climb right of No Direction Home in Boulder Canyon. Short and punchy, it rewards clever footwork and calm on fractured granite, with an option to extend into a longer pitch on mellow terrain above."
Scarecrow offers an uncompromising, compact adventure on Boulder Canyon’s less heralded walls, carving out its own niche just right of the well-known No Direction Home. Though it lacks the polished allure of neighboring climbs, this route presents a gritty, direct crack line that rewards persistence and savvy beta. From the start, you’re greeted by shattered but surprisingly solid stone, inviting careful footwork and measured moves. The climb courses up a distinctive crack system before veering right to a jug, then shifting left and ascending further through a sequence that demands both physical engagement and thoughtful route reading. The crux emerges as an awkward traverse across a lichen-specked face, where brute force and finesse collide—either pawing your way across or using a subtle knob to gain purchase.
Anchoring at a pair of bolts after 45 steep feet, Scarecrow doesn’t end here. For those eager to stretch the pitch, a leftward continuation follows No Direction Home’s upper terrain via a series of moderate moves protected by four bolts. Extending the climb to around 90 feet, this add-on brings a welcomed flow to the otherwise punchy effort. The descent is straightforward, with a quick 45-foot rappel from the anchor or a longer 90-foot rap from the upper ledge to the base.
Approach is simple and quick, placing you in the heart of Boulder Canyon’s granite playground. The wall faces east, catching morning sun and cooling in the afternoon shade—ideal for early starts to avoid heat buildup. Light gear suffices here: a rack anchored by Aliens from green to orange, plus a #1 Camalot, rounds out your protection well enough to handle the crack’s varying widths and the fixed bolt placements.
Scarecrow isn’t a classic highlight but stands as a practical test of technique and composure on sometimes crumbly stone that’s firmer than it first appears. It calls on climbers to blend power with clever movement in a steep, compact setting that feels more intimate than imposing. Awareness of the lichen patch and fragile edges is key to smooth sending, while the option to merge with No Direction Home opens possibilities for longer, more varied days on this modest crag.
Whether you’re local or passing through Boulder, this route carves out a niche for climbers looking for a short, sharp trad experience that can be dialed up with a bit of extra length. Pack light, plan for a brisk approach, and prepare for a gritty handful of moves that reward tactical footwork over raw strength. Scarecrow reminds you that adventure at Boulder Canyon isn’t just about polished classics but about finding your own line and making the rock talk.
Watch for loose or shattered rock around the crack and on the traverse; careful gear placements and clean smearing are essential. The lichen can be slippery, so mind your footholds and avoid sudden moves on fragile edges.
Start early for cooler conditions and better friction on lichen-covered sections.
Use 48-inch slings if you plan to clip both anchors when extending onto No Direction Home.
Be prepared for shattered rock; test placements carefully, especially on small edges.
Rappel spots are straightforward but bring extra communication devices if climbing with a partner.
Bring a light rack with green and red Aliens, a #1 Camalot, and an orange Alien or a large wire for the crack. Fixed bolts assist protection on the traversing section.
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