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Santa's Nightmare: The Chimney Challenge at Bear Mountain

Bear Mountain, Canada
chimney
tight jams
hanging block
trad
single pitch
crux
protection heavy
Length: 25 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Santa's Nightmare
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"A test of technical chimney climbing on Bear Mountain’s Second Tier, Santa's Nightmare challenges you with tight jams and a tricky hanging block crux. This 25-foot trad pitch offers a hands-on experience for climbers seeking precise protection and body control."

Santa's Nightmare: The Chimney Challenge at Bear Mountain

Santa's Nightmare on Bear Mountain’s Second Tier presents a distinct challenge for climbers drawn to bold trad lines and technical chimney work. Situated in the rugged landscape of New Brunswick, Canada, this 25-foot pitch beckons those who thrive on precise jamming and body positioning in tight, flaring cracks. The climb starts with a commanding chimney that demands both strength and finesse, pulling you up a hanging block that tests your resolve before the final moves to the summit. This isn’t a straightforward 5.9; depending on your technique, it can feel decidedly tougher, requiring focused effort on foot placements and hand jams that hold your weight with just enough security to stay confident.

The climb’s physical setting amplifies the experience—cool, granite walls that hum with history and natural grit, surrounded by the quiet hum of northern forests. The rock’s texture rewards careful smearing and precise finger locking, while the chimney’s flaring shape pushes you to engage your whole body, balancing tension and momentum. Protection on Santa’s Nightmare calls for a standard rack, but including a #4 cam adds an extra margin of safety against the climb’s more exposed sections.

Accessing the route means a moderate approach through Bear Mountain’s rugged trails, where pine needles cushion your boots and crisp mountain air sharpens your focus. With just one pitch, the climb offers a concentrated dose of technical trad climbing, making it perfect for an afternoon session or as part of a longer day exploring the Second Tier’s classic lines. The rock’s orientation ensures good shade in the afternoon, keeping conditions cool even on warmer days—a critical factor when managing the climb’s sustained chimney moves.

Climbers should be mindful of the route’s physical demands. The hanging block near the crux requires careful body positioning and reliable protection placement, making it essential to bring gear suited for slightly wider cracks. Descending is straightforward with a single rappel off a solid anchor, but staying aware of loose rock and sharp edges on the descent rappel path is recommended.

For anyone eyeing trad climbs in East Canada that blend physical complexity with accessible logistics, Santa’s Nightmare offers a satisfying test of skill and patience. It’s a climb that respects precision and rewards calm decision-making, set against the quiet strength of Bear Mountain’s wilderness. Whether you’re stepping up to your first tight chimney or refining your crack technique, this route demands respect and promises a memorable experience.

Climber Safety

Watch for loose rock around the hanging block and ensure secure placements with a #4 cam before committing. The granite is solid but the exposure at the crux makes careful gear assessment essential. Approach with attention to weather as wet conditions will significantly reduce friction on the chimney walls.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length25 feet

Local Tips

Arrive early to catch the morning light before the wall moves into shade.

Double-check your #4 cam placement near the hanging block; it’s critical for safety.

Wear sticky-soled shoes with good edging to maximize foothold traction on the granite.

Be prepared for cooler conditions on the chimney, especially in spring and fall.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 grade feels somewhat stiff due to the sustained chimney technique and the tricky move off the hanging block. Climbers familiar with traditional crack climbs will find the rating fair but should expect a physical crux that elevates the challenge beyond typical 5.9 routes, especially if chimney climbing is a newer skill.

Gear Requirements

A standard trad rack covers the protection needs here, but including a #4 cam is highly recommended to secure the wider, flaring chimney sections. Bring gear suited for jams as the route relies heavily on solid placements in both medium and large cracks.

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Tags

chimney
tight jams
hanging block
trad
single pitch
crux
protection heavy