Saké: A Classic Trad Climb on the Left Wall of La Bleue

Val-David, Quebec Canada
trad
crack climbing
single pitch
wide crack
Laurentians
Quebec
Length: ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Saké
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Saké is a compelling trad route that caps off some of La Bleue’s steeper challenges with a solid 5.9 crack finish. Perfect for climbers who value sustained technique and thoughtful protection, this line offers an accessible yet rewarding single pitch on Quebec’s rugged Left Wall."

Saké: A Classic Trad Climb on the Left Wall of La Bleue

Saké offers an inviting challenge on the Left Wall of La Bleue, tucked within the Laurentian region of Quebec. This route extends the adventure upward as a natural continuation from some of the area’s tougher lines, rewarding those who push beyond with a satisfying finish along a broad crack system. Starting from the bolted belay anchored in a sheltered cave—already a bit of a refuge after the demanding pitches below—climbers face a single pitch that opens into a wide, hand-sized crack winding its way to the top. The rock here is solid, with good friction and ample features for traditional gear placements, making it an excellent choice for leaders comfortable with mid-grade crack climbing.

The approach to La Bleue itself offers a mix of forested terrain and gentle scrambling, giving enough time to prepare physically and mentally for the climb ahead. At roughly 5.9, Saké presents a straightforward, yet engaging pitch, perfectly suited for climbers looking to test their crack technique without the added pressure of extended multi-pitch complexity. Its position as a second pitch to the more challenging Hara-Kiri or adjacent lines means it’s often reached as part of a longer day on the wall, making it ideal for those who appreciate a thoughtful progression and a sense of accomplishment on a route that ties into a well-established climbing sequence.

Protection options require a traditional rack up to a #4 Camalot, emphasizing the need for solid gear judgment and comfort with placing large cams in potentially awkward spots. The belay station, bolted for security, provides a comfortable staging area before the final push upward. Climbers should be prepared for a sustained effort along the crack, with technical moves that reward precise hand jams and good footwork.

Seasonal timing matters here: the east-facing nature of the Left Wall means morning to midday climbs tend to feature cooler rock temperatures, while afternoons might invite some warming sun. The parking and trail access are well-marked but demand attention to detail given the network of routes in the area. The Laurentians' quiet, modestly elevated forested slopes surround the quarry-like climbing zones, offering a sense of secluded wilderness often missed on busier crags.

Whether you arrive fresh for a day of pushing your crack climbing skills or as a finish to a more intense multi-pitch, Saké links natural beauty and technical challenge in a way that emphasizes both skill and enjoyment. Respect for protection placement and thoughtful pacing will ensure this climb remains a memorable highlight in your outdoor climbing journal.

Climber Safety

Watch for loose rock near the belay cave and ensure all gear is placed securely in the wide crack, as placements can sometimes be challenging in this section. The approach trail also has some steep stretches—moving carefully avoids slips or twisted ankles.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length feet

Local Tips

Start your climb from the bolted belay found at the cave after finishing Hara-Kiri or adjacent routes.

Bring a full rack including large cams up to #4 for secure placements in the wide crack.

Morning climbs tend to offer cooler conditions on this east-facing wall.

Approach carefully on marked trails and allow time to locate the precise start of the pitch.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.9, Saké maintains a consistent level of moderate difficulty that feels fair for experienced trad climbers. The wide crack demands efficient gear placements and solid technique, though the grade itself is not overly severe. When compared to nearby Hara-Kiri (5.11c) or Micheline (5.10b), Saké’s rating is a welcome step down, providing a satisfying endpoint once the harder pitches have been worked through.

Gear Requirements

Standard trad rack up to a #4 Camalot is essential for safe protection. The route’s wide crack requires comfortable gear placements, with no fixed protection beyond the bolted belay at the cave.

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Tags

trad
crack climbing
single pitch
wide crack
Laurentians
Quebec