"Sad Noodle offers a compact, technical trad climb in Squamish’s Murrin Park, marked by its distinctive Y-shaped crack and demanding small gear placements. Perfect for climbers eager to refine crack skills, it combines sharp granite texture with approachable exposure."
Sad Noodle offers a concise yet rewarding trad climbing experience located in the iconic Valley of the Lost Tribe, within Murrin Park. Its distinct Y-shaped crack, splitting into left and right branches, invites climbers into a playfully technical challenge. Starting from a common crack, the route ascends to an overlap, where the left branch—Sad Noodle—beckons you to traverse delicately to the top. This climb demands both finesse and steady footwork as you negotiate small but precise gear placements, especially near the overlap where pro options become limited and require a confident hand.
Set against the dramatic granite faces of the Squamish region, this single-pitch climb offers more than its moderate rating implies. The rock's texture grabs your fingers and toes, urging you upward while the forest below hums faintly, carrying the scent of cedar and damp earth. Though the length is brief, the intensity is palpable as you navigate the transitioning crack system, each move feeling like a conversation between climber and stone.
Protection calls for a standard rack focused on smaller cams and nuts, highlighting the need to prepare for tricky placements around the overlap. The route’s moderate star rating points to steady, enjoyable technical climbing which is accessible yet engaging for those comfortable on 5.9 terrain. Its location within Squamish’s Murrin Park means you benefit from the park’s established trail system and accessibility, with the area’s temperate climate providing excellent climbing conditions through spring, summer, and early fall.
The approach is short and straightforward, leaving more energy for the climb itself. The wall faces a direction that offers early morning shade before warming up in the afternoon sun, allowing climbers to time their ascent for comfort and optimal friction. For descent, the climb is typically downclimbed or rappelled from anchors, so knowing the exit options ahead of time ensures a smooth finish to your outing.
Sad Noodle embodies the spirit of Squamish trad climbing: approachable yet demanding, technical yet rewarding. Whether you're sharpening your crack skills or just looking to experience a classic route off the beaten path, this climb promises a satisfying encounter with nature’s granite puzzle.
Exercise caution at the overlap: gear placements are smaller and more intricate, so take time to ensure solid protection. The descent, whether by rappel or downclimb, demands attention to avoid loose rock or unstable footing.
Start early to enjoy cooler morning temperatures and better friction on granite.
Bring extra small pro to cover tricky placements near the overlap.
Check the trail conditions before heading in; Murrin Park’s access can get muddy after rain.
Familiarize yourself with both downclimb and rappel options to descend safely.
A standard trad rack is essential, focusing on smaller cams and nuts. Be ready for precise placements at the overlap section, where protection is a little more demanding and gear pockets appear smaller.
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