"Rufus at Comic Rocks in Squamish presents a sharp, technical single-pitch trad climb that tests your crack skills and power through a defining roof section. Compact yet intense, this route challenges and rewards climbers who thrive on bold movement and thoughtful gear placements."
Rufus at Comic Rocks stands out as a fiercely demanding single-pitch trad climb that calls for sharp focus and steady technique. From the moment you set foot on the right buttress, the crack system immediately challenges your approach, inviting you to engage the rock with deliberate precision. The climb begins by climbing a clean, well-defined crack that tests your ability to place gear confidently and read the features with clarity.
The route gains intensity quickly as you approach a distinctive roof section. This overhang isn’t just a physical barrier — it dares you to commit, demanding a blend of strength and body control. Cresting the roof reveals a steeper face that requires subtle footwork and fluid movement to maintain rhythm on less obvious holds. The crack resumes, guiding you upward like a natural line, until reaching a bolted anchor that offers a reassuring finish.
At roughly 65 feet, Rufus packs serious climbing into a compact vertical stretch. The protection calls for a rack extending up to 3 inches, with placements demanding careful judgment amid sustained difficulty. The route’s 5.11d rating reflects the considerable technical and physical demands; the crux through the roof particularly tests your ability to balance power and efficiency.
This climb sits within the rugged beauty of Comic Rocks in Squamish, British Columbia — an area renowned for its granite walls and classic lines. The approach is straightforward, allowing you to spend more energy on the climb itself and less on navigation. Whether you’re sharpening your trad skills or pushing into harder grades, Rufus provides a highly rewarding experience that blends the thrill of commitment with the satisfaction of clean, vertical movement.
Weather in Squamish can change quickly, so timing your ascent during stable window conditions is adviseable. Be prepared with solid footwear to manage the granite’s slick sections and ensure your rack includes cams capable of securing under the varied crack widths encountered. Hydration and energy snacks on the approach will keep you alert and fueled.
Rufus also offers a glimpse into Squamish’s climbing culture: approachable yet testing, accessible yet serious. Its location on the Comic Rocks wall places it within a community of climbers who value both the adventure and the craft of traditional climbing. Every movement upwards feels like a conversation with the rock — demanding respect, offering reward.
For anyone willing to take on this route, Rufus promises a compelling slice of what makes Squamish’s granite so magnetic — clear lines, thoughtful protection, and a route that remembers your effort long after you're back on the ground.
Be wary of loose flakes near the roof and ensure gear placements are solid before committing to hard moves. Granite can become slick when damp—stay off the rock if there’s any moisture to prevent slips on key footholds.
Approach early to avoid afternoon heat on the granite face.
Bring sticky-soled climbing shoes for confident edging on slab sections above the roof.
Scout protection placements before committing through the roof section.
Check weather forecasts closely — Squamish can see sudden rain shifts impacting granite friction.
Full trad rack with cams up to 3 inches is essential. Gear placements require precision, especially through the roof where secure protection is key to managing the crux safely.
Upload your photos of Rufus and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.