"Route 66 delivers a compact but powerful 70-foot sport climb at Mount Nemo. Starting in a chimney and moving into steep, technical face climbing, it offers climbers an accessible yet demanding challenge protected by 10 bolts. Ideal for those craving precision and power in Southern Ontario."
Route 66 at Mount Nemo offers an engaging 70-foot sport climb that challenges both strength and technique without demanding a lengthy commitment. Beginning in a tight chimney tucked behind a prominent pillar, this route veers right early on, breaking away from the neighboring Route 69 to carve its own path through steadily steepening rock. The opening moves require committing to powerful, dynamic pulls that push your limits before transitioning into a sequence of delicate, technical face climbing. Each hold demands measured precision, while the solid limestone prescribes a touch of sanding on your fingers. Mount Nemo’s limestone here feels alive—the rock’s texture inviting confident smears and secure crimping. A set of 10 well-placed bolts safeguard the ascent, offering peace of mind for climbers who thrive on bold but protected lines. At the top, an anchor awaits, allowing a straightforward rappel or lowering back down.
This climb sits comfortably within Ontario's vibrant climbing scene, just a short drive from Hamilton, making it accessible for those seeking a quick yet rewarding push outdoors. The wall faces south-east, catching morning sun but offering shade by afternoon, making early hours ideal in warmer months. The rock’s surface is generally clean and reliable, but occasional lichen patches may require a quick brush. Approaching the route involves a brief hike over durable forest trails that rise gently to the crag, set amid the Greenbelt’s characteristic rolling hills and mixed woodlands. Whether you arrive under clear skies or with a gentle breeze drifting through oak and maple branches, the environment adds a calm backdrop to the route’s crisp movements.
Climbers targeting Route 66 should prepare for the demands of a 5.10d climb that balances raw physicality with careful technique. While the grade hints at softness in some sequences, the route’s steeper sections and tricky beta ensure that underprepared hands or uncertain footwork will be tested. Bringing chalk and shoes with a sticky sole is strongly advised to maximize grip on slim edges and small pockets. Hydration is typically easy at this site thanks to proximity to parking, but warm days can elevate exertion quickly—plan accordingly.
In short, Route 66 is a sharp and satisfying climb that rewards those ready to tackle a brief but intense challenge with solid protection and a touch of tech. It's a standout option in Southern Ontario’s sport climbing repertoire, blending accessibility with the thrill of steep, detailed limestone movement.
Although the route is fully bolted, some holds may be small and require careful placement of feet and hands. Climbers should double-check anchors before rappelling and remain alert for loose rock in the chimney approach.
Begin climbs early to enjoy the morning sun and avoid afternoon heat on the route.
Approach via the main Mount Nemo trailhead; the walk-in is short and well-marked.
Watch out for occasional lichen buildup on holds, especially after wet weather—bring a brush.
Plan for a quick rappel or lowered descent from the bolt anchors at the top.
Equipped with 10 bolts and anchors, protection on Route 66 is straightforward. Sticky shoes and chalk are recommended to handle the demanding sequences on steep, technical limestone.
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