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Roman Chimneys: A Climbers' Grand Wall Finale in Squamish

Squamish, British Columbia Canada
offwidth
crack climbing
multi-pitch
boot flake
chimney
exposed
trad gear
Length: 400 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
4
Location
Roman Chimneys
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Roman Chimneys offers a commanding four-pitch trad climb on Squamish's Grand Wall that fuses technical crack climbing with exposed sequences. Its signature chimney and Boot Flake pitch challenge experienced trad climbers seeking a rewarding finish to their wall ascent."

Roman Chimneys: A Climbers' Grand Wall Finale in Squamish

Roman Chimneys stands as a compelling conclusion to the Grand Wall adventure, perched high in Squamish's legendary granite playground. This four-pitch trad route stretches 400 feet of climbing that demands focus and finesse, weaving through a mix of gear placements and carefully bolted anchors, typical of the area. Approaching the climb after reaching the Bellygood Ledge via your chosen paths, the route challenges you with a sequence of exposed moves that balance technical difficulty with the raw thrill of the vertical world.

Pitch one sets the tone with a stretch mostly protected by gear, climbing toward a single bolt before veering into a thin seam. Here, 5.11a moves introduce sustained delicacy as the crack fingers the face where the iconic Boot Flake waits. Belaying atop this flake offers a moment to shake out and admire the towering surroundings.

The second pitch brings the route’s character into sharp focus: a strikingly exposed layback and offwidth tricky enough to test your range of techniques. The crux lies in the initial 15 feet, where you’ll negotiate a narrow squeeze or layback, protected best by a large cam in the 4 to 6-inch range. Beyond this, the climbing eases slightly into face holds and more forgiving layback moves.

Pitch three is where Roman Chimneys earns its reputation. This pitch ascends through a blossoming corner that gradually steepens, leading swiftly to a bold chimney section rated 5.11d. The chimney, guarded by solid locks, compels a mix of horizontal jamming and delicate body positioning. Pulling over the lip here rewards with a broad ledge—an earned respite before the final pitch. Alternately, a less appealing 5.10d variation exists, though it sacrifices the pure line and style of the chimney.

The last pitch moves back into classic Squamish crack climbing at 5.10b, threading a crack-in-corner route that takes you through sandy holds before topping out. Finishing here places you on high ground with sweeping views over the forested slopes and distant peaks, perfectly framing the effort put in below.

Protection consists of a well-matched range of cams, from singles up to 2 inches, doubles on smalls to 0.5 inches, and crucially, a large cam in the 4.5 to 6-inch size to secure the offwidth section. This gear selection strikes a balance between security and lightness, helping you navigate the mix of crack sizes and technical sequences.

Roman Chimneys requires mental focus to manage exposure and movement quality, but the bolted anchors along the route offer reassuring safety points. Climbing here demands respect for the granite’s demands and the rhythm of Squamish’s unique climbing style. The area itself, within Squamish’s Grand Wall terrain, is a sweeping wilderness with expansive rock faces that engage climbers with both challenge and beauty.

Timing your ascent for spring through early fall maximizes comfort with sun exposure on the wall and accessible trail conditions. Approaches involve moderate hiking and routefinding but reward those who arrive with one of the region’s classic climbs. Descending involves a standard rappel, so having your ropes and anchors ready is a must for a smooth exit.

Roman Chimneys perfectly blends technical climbing with an immersive natural backdrop, appealing to trad climbers looking to test their skills on a demanding Squamish line. Thoughtful preparation, careful gear selection, and a steady approach help climbers embrace the full experience from the boot flake’s distinctive shape to the thrill of the signature chimney and beyond.

Climber Safety

Watch for sandy holds on the final pitch that can reduce friction. The offwidth crux needs large cams carefully placed—secure placements are critical to avoid long falls. The route’s exposure demands strong mental composure, especially on the third pitch's overhanging chimney.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches4
Length400 feet

Local Tips

Bring a large cam to protect the offwidth crux on pitch two.

Plan your climb for spring to early fall for the best sun exposure and conditions.

Be prepared for a combination of sustained face and crack climbing—practice offwidth moves beforehand.

Rappelling is standard; carry sufficient rope length and double-check anchors.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.11d
Quality
Consensus:At 5.11d, Roman Chimneys sits toward the upper end of Squamish's trad difficulty spectrum with a worthy, expressive crux on pitch three’s chimney. The rating feels solid rather than inflated, with sustained moves that require solid technique, finger jams, and offwidth skills. Climbers familiar with local classics like Wizard Tower or P2 Waski can expect similar technical demands but should be ready for the unique chimney challenge here.

Gear Requirements

Gear up with a single set of cams up to 2 inches, doubles on smaller sizes to 0.5 inches, and crucially bring a large cam between 4.5 and 6 inches for the critical offwidth sections. Bolted anchors are common and provide solid belay points throughout.

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Tags

offwidth
crack climbing
multi-pitch
boot flake
chimney
exposed
trad gear