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Rock On Direct: A Bold Variation on Squamish’s Classic

Squamish, British Columbia Canada
finger cracks
roof crux
layback
granite
multi-pitch
Squamish
trad climbing
Length: 230 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
3
Location
Rock On Direct (aka Hard On)
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Rock On Direct challenges climbers with a variation that blends technical stemming and powerful laybacks on Squamish’s famous granite. With a roof crux that demands finger precision and sustained corner climbing, this three-pitch route offers a satisfying alternative to the classic Rock On line."

Rock On Direct: A Bold Variation on Squamish’s Classic

Rock On Direct offers climbers a distinctive spin on one of Squamish’s most celebrated trad lines, carving its own identity along The Apron’s iconic granite face. This route pulls you into a dance of delicate stemming and powerful laybacks within clean corner systems, demanding precise finger placements and steady composure. Starting just left of the original Rock On, the climb breaks ground immediately after clipping a pair of bolts low on the first pitch, leading you up through a corner sequence where each move tests your balance and technique. Anchors appear as milestones—first roughly ninety feet off the deck, then another about seventy feet higher—as the route unfolds vertically.

The climbing rhythm leans into sustained finger cracks paired with moments of dynamic reach, especially as you prepare for the cruxes. The first pitch’s challenges sit primarily in two spots: a layback corner crux and a small overhang near the top, both landing around 5.10a. These short sequences pack a punch of technical demand without overstaying their welcome, inviting climbers to engage fully without draining energy prematurely.

The second pitch steps up in seriousness with a bold 80-foot push over a roof—the defining crux of the route. Here, the finger crack threading through the back of the roof digs narrow, forcing you to navigate subtle holds with precision, a particular consideration for climbers with larger fingers. Successfully pulling through yields a relief as the rock opens into larger jug holds, allowing for a welcome rest before topping out the pitch. This section’s intensity and style draw parallels to memorable roof cruxes like those found on Blazing Saddles, offering not only physical challenge but a mental test in commitment.

Rock On Direct remains a compelling alternative when conditions favor it over the classic line, though be prepared to encounter a bit more dirt and debris along the way. Despite this, the quality of the granite and the engaging climbing make it a worthy contender in Squamish’s well-trodden portfolio.

With three pitches covering just over 230 feet, the route demands a moderate rack up to 2 inches and a couple of draws for clipping the initial bolts. A 70m rope allows for longer pitches if desired, though the majority of parties prefer breaking it into distinct sections for strategic rest and gear management. Approaching the wall involves a well-maintained trail typical of Squamish’s extensive climbing infrastructure, leading adventurers directly to The Apron’s base.

Seasonally, spring through fall offers the most comfortable conditions, with afternoon warmth softening the granite and highlighting the extensive views over the waterfront town below. While the climb faces primarily south, shading is limited late in the day, so early starts can help beat the heat. Descending is straightforward via rappels from established anchors, but attention to rope management is essential to avoid hangups.

Whether you’re stepping into Squamish’s climbing scene for the first time or seeking a fresh challenge alongside a classic, Rock On Direct delivers a spirited climb with just the right balance of technical demands and routefinding simplicity. Preparation is key—bring sturdy shoes with good edging, finger tape if you favor protection for thin cracks, and plenty of water for the approach and post-climb hike out. Embrace the rougher patches of rock and dirt as part of the route’s character, and you’ll find a climb that rewards both effort and technique with memorable granite moves and stunning views.

Climber Safety

Watch for loose rock and some dirt accumulation, especially on the first pitch corners and in the roof crack. Anchors are solid but always test your gear placements thoroughly. Approach trails can be wet and slippery after rain, so wear appropriate footwear to prevent slips.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches3
Length230 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid midday heat on the south-facing wall.

Bring finger tape for the thinner cracks on the roof section.

Leave extra time for cleaning some dirtier sections along the route.

Double-check anchor rigging on rappel for a smooth descent.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10c
Quality
Consensus:The 5.10c grade here is consistent with the route’s crux pitch and feels appropriately challenging. The two main cruxes on the first pitch hover around 5.10a, providing technical bursts, while the roof crux on the second pitch demands committed fingerwork that pushes the difficulty up. Compared to nearby routes like Blazing Saddles, Rock On Direct delivers a similarly intense but more sustained crack climbing experience.

Gear Requirements

Standard rack up to 2 inches plus a pair of draws for the initial bolts is sufficient for this route. A 70m rope is recommended if you plan to climb the first section in one long pitch, though splitting into two pitches is common to manage the cruxes more effectively.

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Tags

finger cracks
roof crux
layback
granite
multi-pitch
Squamish
trad climbing