Adventure Collective

Roadeo Sport Climb on South Fork of St. Vrain Canyon

Lyons, Colorado United States
incut holds
flake risk
high first bolt
single pitch
sport climb
rappel descent
Length: 75 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Roadeo
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Roadeo is a crisp, single-pitch climb on the South Fork of St. Vrain Canyon near Lyons, Colorado. With solid incut holds and a cautious section around a large flake, it offers a balanced challenge for sport climbers ready to refine their gear placements and movement skills."

Roadeo Sport Climb on South Fork of St. Vrain Canyon

Roadeo offers a compact yet engaging experience on the sheer walls of South Fork of St. Vrain Canyon, just outside Lyons, Colorado. The climb is a single pitch of 75 feet, presenting a combination of secure holds and subtle challenges that keep both intermediate and confident climbers on their toes. The rock is clean and solid, primarily featuring incut holds that invite controlled, deliberate movements. As you ascend, you pass five bolts placed to protect the route, though the fifth bolt rests within a large flake that has drawn some concern. While the rock isn't likely to give way under body weight, this flake introduces an element of caution—the consequences could be serious if it fails, so many choose to clip below it and rely on traditional protection placed just above the fourth bolt.

The first bolt sits noticeably high off the ground, requiring some good footwork and balance to clip safely – a small introduction to the mental game Roadeo offers. The crux sections aren’t especially difficult, but the route makes you thoughtful in your moves and gear. Climbers praise the route for its straightforward style, clean rock, and reliable protection aside from that one debated flake. Anchors consist of two bolted chains, simplifying the descent by rappel.

Approach is moderate and accessible, with trails weaving through pine and scrub that echo the canyon’s rugged backdrop. The wall faces west, providing afternoon shade and shelter from the high-altitude sun’s heat. The best seasons here are spring and fall when temperatures balance climbing comfort with low afternoon weather hazards. Understand that the climb demands attentive clipping and situational judgment, especially around the bolt with the flake. Given its proximity to Lyons, logistics work well for a half-day trip, including time for approach, climb, and return.

Roadeo presents an ideal climb for those looking to sharpen sport climbing skills on Colorado’s vivid canyon walls without venturing into truly wild, remote terrain. Wear sturdy climbing shoes with good toe sensitivity and bring extra quickdraws for selective gear placements. Hydrate thoroughly before and after because the dry mountain air can be unexpectedly draining. Finally, be confident but cautious—respecting nature’s forces and the rock’s subtle warnings will make this route both memorable and safe.

Climber Safety

The large flake housing the fifth bolt has raised concerns about stability. It is recommended to avoid clipping this bolt and instead place traditional gear above the fourth bolt for added security. The first bolt’s height also demands careful clipping technique to prevent swinging falls.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length75 feet

Local Tips

Place a quickdraw with a sling to extend the fourth bolt for reducing rope drag near the risky flake.

Approach early in the day or late afternoon to avoid direct sun on the west-facing wall.

Bring nuts and cams in small to medium sizes for gear placements above the fourth bolt.

Double-check slings and anchor hardware before rappelling; anchor chains are exposed to weather.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9-
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.9-, Roadeo feels approachable with a relatively soft grade considering the protection and holds, but the high first bolt and the flake near the fifth bolt require some calculated movement and gear savvy. Compared with other routes in the St. Vrain Canyons, it strikes a good balance between sport climbing flow and cautious trad practice.

Gear Requirements

Five bolts protect the route, with the first bolt positioned high off the ground requiring careful approach moves. The fifth bolt is located in a large flake that is debated as a potential hazard, so it’s common to place gear above the fourth bolt and skip clipping the fifth bolt entirely. Anchors are bolted chains suitable for rappelling.

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Tags

incut holds
flake risk
high first bolt
single pitch
sport climb
rappel descent