Rising From the Plains - Wild Iris’ Steep Testpiece

Lander, Wyoming
roof climbing
exposed
technical crimps
short routes
sport climbing
high altitude
wind prone
sunny exposure
Length: 30-50 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
single pitch
Protected Place
Wild Iris Wilderness Study Area
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Rising From The Plains demands strength and precision, challenging climbers with its steep roofs and technical crimps under Wyoming’s high alpine sun. This exposed crag at Wild Iris boasts short, powerful routes that test you on a range of difficult moves, from powerful bulges to sustained finger locks."

Rising From the Plains - Wild Iris’ Steep Testpiece

Rising From The Plains represents the raw, demanding edge of Wild Iris’ Main Wall in Wyoming, where verticality meets technical prowess. Located on the far left (west) end of the Main Wall, this collection of routes is a playground for climbers chasing the thrill of steep roofs and explosive moves. The crag is distinguished by its signature bulbous low roof that projects boldly from the rock face, framing several seriously challenging routes that push climbers’ power and finesse. Here, the climbing is short but potent, packing a punch with a spectrum that runs mainly on the harder end – leaning heavily into hard 5.13s and beyond.

Approaching the area, the trail heads left from the parking lot before swinging right at a key intersection, guiding climbers toward the unmistakable white bulge that 'rises from the plains' itself. As you arrive, the south-facing cliff basks in sunlight for the majority of the day, though early morning and late evening bring shade to some routes, providing welcome relief at high elevations near 8,949 feet. Despite the warmth of the sun, the exposed position makes wind a constant companion, a reminder that weather shifts can be swift in this high mountain environment.

The climbing experience here is defined by variety within its brevity. Routes vary from roof-bulges that demand raw upper-body power to sustained sequences of sharp technical crimps on the far right of the wall. Notable lines include the once celebrated Paul Piana testpiece 'Adi-Goddang-Yos,' a direct, powerful arc around the left side of the prominent roof, now made more intense by a broken hold altering its crux and rhythm. For those seeking extreme challenges, BJ Tilden’s intimidating 5.14 'You Ain't Bill Hickock' attacks the central roof with moves that test every ounce of technique and grit.

For climbers not chasing the absolute peak of difficulty, a handful of solid 5.12s pepper the wall, showing off the area’s technical diversity. 'Pocket Derringer' offers a surprising test at 5.11, carrying a deceptively tricky section through a low bulge. The routes maintain an intense character, demanding focus and precise footwork even for those a grade or two lower.

Rising From The Plains also offers a few projects and potential new lines, hinting at more to discover on the north-facing backside of the cliff. While that rock is generally of lower quality, reminiscent of nearby sectors like the OK Corral, any shaded climbs here would be especially desirable during summer heat.

Classic climbs anchor the area's reputation with routes like 'Rising From the Plains' (5.12b) and 'Cowboy Killer' (5.12b) offering solid challenges for intermediate-to-advanced climbers. Lines such as 'The Rustler's Cache' (5.12b) and 'Chaps' (5.12c) exemplify the technical crimping that the area excels at. For those aiming higher, 'Tres Hombres' and 'Last Man Standing' both rated 5.13a stand out; the latter enjoys particular acclaim and offers exciting moves at the steep end of the spectrum. 'Horsewhipped and Hogtied' (5.13a) rounds out the line-up of must-attempt routes, each delivering a punchy, memorable climbing experience within a natural alpine setting.

Despite its allure, Rising From The Plains is not suited for beginners. The steepness and power requirements combined with the crag’s exposed and somewhat sparse forest base create a serious environment where taking weather and wind seriously is crucial. Storms can sweep in quickly, bringing lightning risk on this exposed bluff. Prepare accordingly and stay alert to mountain weather patterns.

Gear-wise, sport climbing draws the focus here. Climbers should bring a standard rack of quickdraws, tuned to handle short but risky efforts. Protection is reliable on bolts, but awareness of sharp edges and delicate holds, especially near the roofs, is key to preserving gear and safety. Lightweight harness setups and climbing shoes favoring sensitivity will enhance performance on the technical, sometimes patina-slick crimps.

After a day of steep moves and powerful sequences, descent is straightforward with easy walk-off access back down the main trail. This allows climbers to quickly regroup and hit multiple routes within the same outing.

Rising From The Plains is a compelling destination for those who seek a mix of technical challenge and exposed alpine beauty. Its combination of varied short pitches, memorable roofs, and fine Wyoming weather creates an experience that rewards preparation and persistence. Whether eyeing the iconic testpieces or looking to sharpen skills on stout 5.12s, this section of Wild Iris delivers climbing that demands your best and leaves you eager for more.

Climber Safety

This cliff is notably exposed with sparse forest cover, making wind a constant factor and mountain storms potentially dangerous. The base can be slippery and rough, so be cautious of rock quality near the roofs and keep a close eye on weather forecasts to avoid lightning hazards.

Area Details

TypeSport
Pitchessingle pitch
Length30-50 feet

Local Tips

Start early to beat the midday sun on the south-facing wall.

Watch weather conditions closely due to frequent winds and lightning risk.

Approach via the left from the Wild Iris parking lot, then head right at the white bulge.

Shade from a lone pine offers brief reprieve mid-crag especially near 'Lord Loves A Hangin'.

Area Rating

Quality
Consensus:The routes at Rising From The Plains lean into the harder end of the scale, mostly 5.12 and above, pushing into 5.14 for elite climbers. The area is known for its stiff grades, especially on routes featuring large roofs and intricate crimp sequences. This place rewards climbers who bring power, precision, and mental focus, and isn’t known for soft ratings. Compared to other crags at Wild Iris, it stands out for its intensity and technical demand rather than length, making it a distinct challenge even for seasoned sport climbers.

Gear Requirements

Rising From The Plains routes are sport climbs with solid fixed bolts. A standard rack of quickdraws sized for pitches between 30 and 50 feet suffices. Sharp edges near roofs call for careful clipping and gear inspection. Lightweight, technical shoes are recommended for precise toe and finger placement.

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Tags

roof climbing
exposed
technical crimps
short routes
sport climbing
high altitude
wind prone
sunny exposure