"Right Wing is a demanding four-pitch trad route in Squamish that comes alive mid-summer after months of damp rock. Featuring technical cracks, sustained face climbing, and a wild overhanging finish, this climb balances endurance and precision in one of Canada's best granite playgrounds."
Right Wing stands as a compelling challenge within Squamish’s rugged granite landscape, demanding patience and skill from climbers ready to face its distinct wet season quirks and technical pitches. The route clings to its moisture well into early summer, with the rock rarely drying out before July unless the season has been exceptionally dry. This timing places Right Wing as a prime target for mid to late summer when the holds shed their dampness and the rock turns grippy under focused hands.
The climb starts with Eagles Domain, a solid 60-meter finger crack slab rated at 5.8 that tests your balance and finger strength without overwhelming your senses right away. This pitch serves as a perfect warm-up, drawing you upwards through a vast slab before veering right to the base of the main Right Wing corner system. Here, the climbing shifts into a higher gear — the second pitch is a technical 10c sport climb, compact yet demanding delicate footwork and precision as you navigate it.
Pitch three, known as The Filibuster, is the heart of this route. Over the next 58 meters, it stretches through a range of crack sizes and face features, maintaining a relentless 10a to 10b level of difficulty. This pitch asks for steady focus and adaptability, juggling a sequence of moves that never drop below a solid challenge but also never spike into extreme difficulty. It’s a sustained effort that will reveal your endurance and crack-climbing finesse.
The final pitch, What’s Left, surprises with an imposing, left-facing beak that juts out with a four-meter overhang. The crux here is a demanding kneebar tucked beneath the flake, a wild move that ups the excitement and complexity. This steep finish caps off the route by pushing climbers beyond straightforward crack climbing into dynamic body positioning and core strength.
Gear-wise, you’ll want to come prepared for anything, as protection ranges from tiny finger-sized cams to large, wide placements up to 5 inches. Triples of small cams and doubles up to 3 inches ensure you’re covered on the more technical sections and wider cracks alike. This means a full rack isn’t just recommended—it’s essential.
Right Wing is part of Squamish’s rich tradition of trad climbs blending technical crack and face sequences with powerful moves on solid granite. The route’s location places you right in the heart of one of the world’s premier climbing areas, where towering walls, deep forests, and the coastal air mingle. Its moderate length—about 500 feet over four pitches—makes it manageable for an intense day pushing limits, with each pitch offering unique movement and character.
Approach is straightforward but requires a solid plan. The trailhead is accessible from Squamish, with a hike into the wall that warms legs and sharpens focus. Climbers should aim for sunny afternoons once the route has dried out, since the wet spring conditions can keep the granite reluctant and slick. Early summer attempts often run into lingering damp patches, so timing your visit can make the difference between a frustrating climb and a memorable send.
Descending involves rappelling the route, with established anchors at each belay station. This descent demands concentration as loose rock and route finding can pose risks if you’re not vigilant. Take your time down, double-check your gear, and stay aware of the changing light conditions as the sun drops behind the coastal peaks.
Whether you’re working on grit, crack technique, or mid-grade sport climbing, Right Wing offers a rounded test with a dynamic mix of moves and rock features. It’s a summer route you earn by waiting through the damp spring, rewarding patience with the tactile thrill of clean granite and sustained challenges. If you’re looking for a Squamish climb that blends technical adventure with practical logistics, Right Wing stands ready to stake its claim on your climbing journey.
Wet rock can persist on this route into early summer; avoid climbing in damp conditions to reduce risk of slips. The final overhanging pitch requires careful protection and strong kneebar technique. Descending involves multiple rappels with some loose rock hazards, so double-check your anchors and gear before committing.
Reserve your climb for mid to late summer when the rock has dried out fully.
Bring a full trad rack with emphasis on a wide range of cam sizes, especially large pieces up to 5 inches.
Start early in the day to avoid afternoon shade and maximize sunlight on the rock.
Be prepared for a technical belay setup, and confirm your rappel anchors before descent.
A comprehensive rack is essential: triples of cams down to 1", doubles from 1" to 3", and singles up to 5" wide. This variety covers the full range of crack sizes encountered, with tricky placements demanding versatility in gear choice.
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