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Reynas y Reyes: Ascending Pico Pirineos’ Exposed Northeast Arete

Monterrey, Nuevo Leon Mexico
exposed
multi-pitch
technical face
arete climbing
helmet recommended
runout sections
linked pitches
Length: 1000 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
12
Location
Reynas y Reyes
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Reynas y Reyes delivers a striking twelve-pitch sport climb along the exposed northeast arete of Pico Pirineos. Technical and pumpy climbing blends with sustained ledges and airy exposures, inviting climbers seeking a demanding adventure in La Huasteca’s dramatic northern granite."

Reynas y Reyes: Ascending Pico Pirineos’ Exposed Northeast Arete

Reynas y Reyes challenges climbers with a striking ascent that carves a route along the exposed northeast arete of Pico Pirineos, overlooking the rugged contours of La Huasteca in Nuevo Leon. This sport climb stretches over 12 pitches, but with strategic linking, a 60-meter rope can condense the journey into six continuous pitches that push both technique and endurance. The rock stands solid for the most part, yet a cautious helmet is recommended as fragile and hollow holds pepper the route, reminding climbers of the mountain’s unforgiving edge.

Starting with a third-class scramble slipping past bolts and thorny plants, the approach sets a practical, if slightly raw tone to the climb. Pitch 2 leapfrogs into steep, technical face climbing rated 5.11+, demanding power and efficiency on a wall peppered with more than a dozen bolts. This pitch lands squarely in the pumpy territory, requiring sustained effort and sharp footwork. The third pitch, rated 5.11-, mixes steepness with big reaches between solid edges, inviting climbers to balance finesse and strength through a standout thin crux that separates the solid midsection from the more moderate encounters ahead.

From pitch 4 onward, the route softens into 5.9+ and 5.6 terrain, following ledgy, blocky sequences that reward careful foot placement and a steady mindset. Exposure grows, especially along the elegant arete sections on pitches 6 through 9, where the line nudges upward above the terrain, offering striking vantage points on each stance. Here, the mountain breathes around you, the wind pressing softly against faces and the rocky outcrops daring you further upward.

The last three pitches deliver steady technical climbing with grades hovering near 5.9 and 5.10. These sections require a mix of slab and corner techniques, leading to challenging hanging moves with questionable holds at pitches 10 and 11, testing mental composure as much as physical skill. The finale rolls out a blocky traverse around the arete, ending on a solid belay pillar just below the summit—a place where the route’s sparse protection invites caution.

Protection along this climb centers on roughly 14 quickdraws and extendable slings, although bringing 20 is advised for comfortable linking. The bolts are well spaced, reflecting the sport nature but demanding that climbers remain vigilant about gear extensions, especially on the more runout traverses.

Approaching the base requires navigating thorns and spiky vegetation in a 40-meter scramble, a reminder that the mountain remains an active and rugged participant in the climb. Given the fragile holds and loose blocks near the summit, wearing a helmet is more than a recommendation—it’s a necessity. Timing your ascent to avoid midday heat will improve grip and minimize risk as the rock surface heats up in the sun.

Reynas y Reyes sits within the broader La Huasteca climbing region, a destination defined by its exposed granite faces and stark desert atmosphere. The climb offers streaks of solitude rarely found in more frequented climbing corridors, perfect for adventurers looking to connect deeply with the rock and the relentless wind that shapes this northern Mexican wilderness.

Descent involves unroping and scrambling carefully past loose blocks and sharp plants, following a well-trodden path to the summit anchor before making your way back down. The approach and descent both reward preparation and respect—bringing sturdy boots, plenty of water, and readiness for rough terrain will help you enjoy the climb without avoidable hazards.

Reynas y Reyes calls to climbers ready for a technical, exposed challenge that blends raw natural force with sport route efficiency. It demands both mind and muscle, offering rich panoramas and a vivid sense of place right at the edge of Mexico’s dramatic northern peaks.

Climber Safety

Be cautious of fragile holds and hollow rock throughout, especially on the upper pitches. Loose blocks near the summit and thorny plants during approach and descent increase risk, so always wear a helmet and approach mindfully.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches12
Length1000 feet

Local Tips

Wear a helmet to protect against fragile holds and loose rock near the summit.

Use a 60-meter rope for efficient pitch linking and better movement on longer stretches.

Avoid midday heat; morning or late afternoon climbs offer better friction and cooler conditions.

Prepare for a 40-meter approach scramble with thorny brush—durable shoes and long pants are a must.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.11+
Quality
Consensus:While the climb holds a steep 5.11+ rating, the upper pitches include sustained pumpy moves that raise the physical demand beyond the grade. The presence of multiple cruxes requires precise stamina management, making it feel stiffer than similar climbs in La Huasteca's moderate range. The lower pitches ease off in difficulty but retain technical value, rounding out a balanced and challenging ascent.

Gear Requirements

Approximately 14 quickdraws required, with extendable slings recommended for runouts. Bringing 20 draws helps when linking multiple pitches in one push.

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Tags

exposed
multi-pitch
technical face
arete climbing
helmet recommended
runout sections
linked pitches