"Ren is a stiff 5.10c single-pitch trad climb on The Chief at Squamish, known for its sharp hand crack and challenging side-pull laybacks. This route weaves bold moves with precise gear placements, delivering a gritty taste of classic British Columbia granite."
Ren offers a sharp, demanding trad pitch that challenges climbers ready to push their limits on Squamish’s iconic granite walls. This 50-foot line carves through solid, but physically intense rock, demanding precise technique and mental focus. From the moment you engage the tight, aggressive hand crack at the base—packed with sharp edges that call for tape protection—the climb sets a tone of committed, bold movement. Climbers will need to navigate side-pull laybacks on face holds that feel somewhat insecure, adding both subtle tension and a thrilling edge to the experience. Though rated 5.10c, Ren climbs with the fluidity and intensity of sport routes, blending sustained technical sequences with the outdoor grit of traditional placements.
Protection demands a thoughtful rack: a single set of cams up to #2 Camalot, plus a collection of nuts, with extra smaller cams as optional but helpful fillers. The route includes one bolt located just above the start of the 5.9 traverse that links into the Wild Turkey pitch, a key feature providing a secure anchor zone. The bolt-protected anchor system uses a chain and older biners, ensuring a reliable belay stance after the climb’s steeper demands.
Approaching Ren means entering the rugged Bulletheads sector on The Chief, where the granite begins to steepen and the forest floor fades into vertical blank spaces. The climb's compact length—just 50 feet—packs a potent punch and is perfect for climbers looking for a tight, intense move sequence without prolonged exposure. The rock’s texture offers excellent friction when dry, but the abrasiveness rewards careful foot placement and a steady grip rhythm.
Local wisdom suggests tape your fingers for the sharp crack and bring a relaxed but alert mindset; the rope management around the bolt and traverse requires smooth coordination. Early morning or late afternoon sessions are best, when the area’s shade balances the heat and keeps the granite’s surface from becoming slick or overly hot.
Ren rewards climbers who embrace its physicality and runout nuances with a memorable, gritty scramble on a classic Squamish face. It’s a climb that combines bold technical moves with manageable protection, suitable for adventurous trad climbers who want a focused challenge away from the busier sport lines. Empower your next climbing day with Ren’s mix of raw edge and careful gear placement—it’s a compelling step into some of British Columbia’s most respected trad terrain.
The climb’s protection can feel sparse, especially on the side-pull sequences, so maintaining solid footwork is critical. The sharp crack warrants taping to avoid skin damage. Watch for loose older biners on the bolted anchor and check fixed gear before trusting your life to it.
Tape your fingers to protect against the sharp hand crack.
Bring extra small cams for optional placements around the initial crack.
Plan your rope management around the single bolt above the 5.9 traverse.
Climb during cooler hours to maximize friction and comfort.
Carry a single rack to #2 Camalot with a full set of nuts. Extra small cams can help for tricky placements in the tight crack. One bolt is fixed above the 5.9 traverse leading to Wild Turkey, with a bolted anchor featuring a chain and older biners.
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