Red Slate Mountain - High Sierra’s Towering Alpine Challenge

Mammoth Lakes, California
alpine
mixed climbing
north couloir
convict lake approach
snow and ice
high elevation
camping
Length: approx. 1500 ft
Type: Mixed
Stars
Pitches
single pitch, alpine route
Protected Place
Inyo National Forest
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Rising to 13,156 feet, Red Slate Mountain stands as a commanding presence in California’s High Sierra, offering climbers a rugged alpine experience defined by dramatic terrain and an iconic north-facing couloir. From Convict Lake, adventurers find a compelling blend of striking scenery and a demanding approach that rewards perseverance with unforgettable views and classic climbing lines."

Red Slate Mountain - High Sierra’s Towering Alpine Challenge

Red Slate Mountain holds a quiet yet undeniable claim on the High Sierra skyline, visible from many surrounding summits as a distant, snow-speckled peak that beckons with a raw, primal sense of adventure. To the south, this mountain appears almost sculpted from deep red scree slopes, vast and forbidding. But approaching from the north reveals its true alpine character—a sharply defined silhouette pierced by a high, diagonal couloir carved into its face that draws climbers seeking a mix of technical challenge and breathtaking exposure.

The journey to Red Slate begins at Convict Lake, where the trail guides climbers along the lake’s shimmering northern shore before navigating the rugged corridors of Convict Canyon. This narrow passage winds between jagged peaks and steep ridges, adding an element of wild, understated beauty to the approach. The trail ends at Mildred Lake, a perfect campsite surrounded by towering rock faces, making it an ideal base for acclimatizing before pushing further south toward the mountain’s base.

Climbing here is as much about the process as the summit itself. The north couloir, rated WI2, is the classic line—its icy corridors offering a sustained mixed climb framed by the grandeur of the surrounding peaks. While the route count is modest, each climb underscores the area’s alpine spirit, demanding respect for the unpredictable elements and rewarding with immense satisfaction. The mountain’s elevation of 13,156 feet means weather can shift swiftly, so timing is crucial—summer and early fall provide the most reliable window for an ascent when snowfields and ice soften just enough to make the climb feasible.

The rock and ice environment calls for a well-rounded skill set and solid preparation. Approaching via Convict Canyon means hikers and climbers should be ready for steep scrambles, variable footing, and potentially cold nights if camping near Mildred Lake. Essentials include layered clothing for temperature swings, reliable navigation tools, and climbing gear suited to alpine mixed routes—ice tools, crampons, and a cautious approach to protection placements in often loose or icy rock.

For those drawn to experience classic High Sierra climbs in their purest form, Red Slate provides a singular setting that feels both remote and inviting—offering a careful balance between challenge and exhilaration. It’s a place where the wilderness feels immediate, views unfold without distraction, and every step on the trail or pitch demands focus and respect. Whether you’re setting foot on the icy couloir or simply savoring the broad panoramas from the trail below, Red Slate Mountain is a destination that embodies the spirit of true alpine adventure.

Planning a trip here means considering the logistics carefully: from the 4,800-foot elevation gain starting at Convict Lake to the potential camping spots around Mildred Lake, every detail enhances the journey. Weather averages favor summer through early fall climbing, though sudden storms are always a possibility, so remain vigilant and plan accordingly. Embrace the ruggedness and solitude of this High Sierra giant and prepare for an alpine outing that lingers in memory long after the descent.

Climber Safety

The approach through Convict Canyon involves steep, uneven terrain with loose scree on portions of the south face. The alpine environment means weather can deteriorate quickly and snowfields may linger late into the summer. Proper acclimatization and conservative climbing strategies are essential to minimize risk.

Area Details

TypeMixed
Pitchessingle pitch, alpine route
Lengthapprox. 1500 feet

Local Tips

Start early from Convict Lake to avoid afternoon storms common in summer afternoons.

Mildred Lake offers a good camping spot for acclimatization and staging the climb.

Be prepared for scree on the south side if exploring the mountain’s alternate approaches.

Check weather forecasts carefully; sudden alpine storms can create hazardous conditions.

Area Rating

Quality
Consensus:Red Slate Mountain’s rating, centered on the WI2 North Couloir, presents a moderate technical challenge ideal for climbers comfortable with alpine ice climbing fundamentals. The overall difficulty leans toward straightforward but requires solid skills due to the elevation and variable conditions. Unlike areas known for soft grading, Red Slate’s climbs demand respect as the alpine environment adds complexity beyond pure technical difficulty.

Gear Requirements

The classic North Couloir demands mixed alpine gear including ice tools and crampons for the WI2 ice climbing sections. Protection involves placing gear carefully on variable icy and rocky terrain, making solid ice screws and traditional alpine rack essential. Adequate layering and camping gear are recommended for overnight stays at Mildred Lake.

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Tags

alpine
mixed climbing
north couloir
convict lake approach
snow and ice
high elevation
camping