"Rainy Day Dream Away captures the essence of Squamish’s granite with a finely tuned finger crack climb that blends technical precision and solid protection. A single-pitch route perfect for sharpening crack skills amid a stunning wilderness setting."
Rainy Day Dream Away offers climbers a focused stretch of technical crack climbing that captures the essence of Squamish’s classic granite. Located on the Campground Wall, just steps from the bustling hub of The Bulletheads and the towering presence of The Chief, this route swiftly elevates you 130 feet along a sharply defined finger crack. Unlike some overhanging, strenuous cracks, this line maintains a subtle lean under vertical, demanding precise finger jams and calculated body positioning with each move. The granite here feels alive, rough under your fingertips yet assuring—offering a grip that demands respect but also rewards control.
From the ground, climbers approach the route by spotting twin tree stumps marking the start, a practical landmark that guides you right of Self Abuse, a nearby route known to locals. The crack beckons with a steady rhythm where bomber finger locks provide secure resting spots amid sustained climbing. The protection variety enhances the allure: expect to place gear from small cams and nuts up to a number 2 Camalot, which comfortably protects both the lower and crux sections. For climbers prepared with a precise rack, this adds a layer of strategic gear placements, serving both safety and rhythm.
The setting gifts climbers more than just technical moves. Soaring above, the forested edges frame the wall, fresh air carries a subtle hint of pine, and the nearby waters amplify the wilderness feeling. The route’s one-pitch nature makes it accessible for a half-day climb, perfect for those wanting to sharpen crack climbing skills without committing to a multi-pitch adventure. Timing your ascent during the mid-morning to early afternoon brings the sun to the face, warming the granite and drying overnight moisture.
Expect cool breezes filtering through the tall trees below, occasionally shaking loose dried leaves that drift lazily past as you climb. While the route’s rating of 5.10c will push intermediate to advanced climbers, the feel is honest—no forced moves or deadpoints that feel out of place—just focused, precise climbing requiring patience and technique.
For planning, bring clean finger tape if your skin tends to be sensitive, and consider a pair of rubber-soled climbing shoes with a stiff midsole to sustain edging on the crack edges. Hydration is key if the sun intensifies, though the shade of surrounding trees offers occasional relief. Parking is found near the Campground Wall trailhead, where signs mark access points clearly, and the approach involves a short, mostly level hike on well-maintained trails.
Whether you’re refining crack jams or looking for a straightforward route with character, Rainy Day Dream Away offers an essential Squamish experience—technical, engaging, and within reach of the region’s climbing core.
Natural protection placements are generally bomber, but precise gear placement is crucial, especially around the crux section near the top. Keep an eye on granite cleanliness as trailing loose flakes can be present after heavy rain. Approach and descent trails are short but can be slippery when wet.
Start near the twin stumps right of Self Abuse to locate the route easily.
Aim for a mid-morning to early afternoon climb to benefit from warming sun on the granite.
Use stiff-soled climbing shoes to maintain precise edging on finger cracks.
Pack plenty of water and keep hands dry for secure jams.
Prepare a traditional rack with a good range of small cams and nuts up to a #2 Camalot for protection. Finger tape is recommended to protect sensitive skin on the sustained finger cracks.
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