"Rainy Day Cave offers steep, short sport climbs that provide powerful, technical challenges set within the forested highlands of Southwest Oregon. With easy access and a quiet atmosphere, it’s a perfect spot for climbers eager to sharpen their skills on solid routes."
Rainy Day Cave in Southwest Oregon defies its name in the best way. While not a true cave sheltered from stormy skies, it offers a concentrated pocket of steep sport routes that challenge and reward climbers looking for focused bursts of climbing intensity. The longest climbs stretch just beyond the cave’s overhanging lip, providing dynamic movement on solid rock that feels both adventurous and accessible. At an elevation just over 3,000 feet, the area enjoys a temperate climate that complements its spring through fall climbing season, although its exposed nature means it is best suited for days with stable weather.
Approaching Rainy Day Cave is straightforward. After passing the nearby Jane's Buttress, hikers continue along the trail until reaching a downed tree where the path forks. Heading right and uphill leads directly to the climbing zone, nestled within a setting of forested slopes and crisp mountain air. The approach remains moderate and well-marked, making it an inviting destination for climbers balancing a day of tread and send.
The climbing here is predominantly steep sport routes that are generally brief in length, but offer routes that test technique and power. The rock is reliable and the compact nature of the area means you can sample several climbs in a single visit without feeling rushed. Climbers looking for standout challenges will find several classic climbs revered in the community including Redacted (5.10a), In Oregon We Rust (5.10d), Rain Man (5.11a), and Frozen (5.11b). These routes span a moderate to advanced range of difficulty and provide a varied menu of moves from dynamic sequences to sustained technical climbing.
Rainy Day Cave’s location in Southwest Oregon enhances its appeal with a blend of scenic forest and mountain vistas. The climbing spot itself is not heavily trafficked, offering a quieter alternative to busier crags in the region. The terrain demands attention, rewarding steady footwork and precise clipping with ample pockets and edges peppered through the overhanging rock. For those chasing a taste of the area’s character, Rainy Day Cave delivers sport climbs that focus on power and technique without the need to commit to multi-pitch or trad here.
Weather plays a key role in planning a trip. The cave's partial exposure means the rock can warm up quickly under the sun but offers little shelter during sudden showers. Spring through early fall is the prime window, with climbing conditions typically dry and temperature-moderate. Visitors should check local forecasts and plan accordingly since a rainy day here is not ideal for climbing.
When gearing up, climbers should bring a standard sport rack with draws and a rope sufficient for routes that top out around 60 feet. The climbs are single pitch and short enough to keep gear light but thorough—no need for complex setups. The approach trail and minimal bushwhacking mean you can focus your energy on climbing rather than trekking.
Descending from routes is simple with walk-offs and downclimbing that do not require ropes or complicated rappels, providing a smooth end to each ascent.
In all, Rainy Day Cave is a crisp, concentrated climbing area that offers steep sport climbs in a forested Southwest Oregon setting. The combination of solid route options, easy access, and manageable elevation gain makes it a strong pick for climbers seeking quality movement without the fuss. Whether you’re honing your redpoint skills or stepping up to harder climbs, Rainy Day Cave welcomes you with technical challenges wrapped in the quiet energy of Oregon’s highlands.
Watch for slick rock when wet and avoid climbing during or immediately after rain due to limited shelter and exposed climbing surfaces. Approach trail is moderate but includes a tree obstacle—stay vigilant on the way in and out.
After passing Jane's Buttress, follow the trail to the split at the downed tree and take the right fork uphill to reach the cave.
Check the weather carefully before your trip - the cave does not provide full rain shelter despite its name.
Best climbing months are spring through early fall when conditions are dry and temperatures moderate.
Descents are non-technical walk-offs; no rappelling gear necessary.
Bring a standard sport rack with quickdraws and a rope suitable for routes up to 60 feet. No special gear beyond typical sport climbing essentials is required.
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