"Long Wall in Southwest Oregon presents a compelling mix of approachable sport climbs in the 5.11 to 5.12 range. Its accessible location along the trail from Cloud Buttress to Cathedral and solid rock quality make it a great destination for climbers seeking technical challenges amid forested terrain."
Set along the approach trail between Cloud Buttress and Cathedral, Long Wall offers a solid lineup of climbs that draw climbers seeking technical sport routes within a striking natural setting. This cliff stretches parallel to the well-trodden path, providing an accessible yet varied climbing experience across its left two-thirds, where rock quality shines and routes range predominantly in the 5.11a to 5.12a grades. Climbers will find the rock here generally sound and the climbs engaging, requiring a balance of finesse and power. The right side, known as Orange Wall in guidebooks, presents steeper, harder routes on less reliable rock, demanding a cautious hand and perhaps some route cleaning to clear accumulated debris.
Approaching Long Wall is straightforward. After passing the Cloud Buttress—the first major rock formation along the trail—look right to spot the cliffface stretching into the distance toward Cathedral. The trail runs close enough for easy access, with several routes approachable from the top. However, vigilance is crucial here; loose rubble edges the cliff lip, and anchor bolts hang just below the cliff’s lip, so climbers should take care to avoid unstable footing near these exposed sections.
The area rests at an elevation around 3,095 feet, offering a temperate climate suited to a multi-season climbing window, with the clearest weather typically in late spring through early fall. Expect forested trails leading up, surrounded by the quiet energy of Southwest Oregon’s wilderness, with the swoosh of pine and fir trees framing your ascent. While the rock type isn’t specified, the character of the routes and the region’s volcanic past suggest textured surfaces demanding precise footwork.
Classic climbs on Long Wall have earned their place in local lore for their sharp sequencing and rewarding moves. Noteworthy routes include Topaz (5.11b), Woman in the Mist (5.11), and Whistler (5.11d), all rated between 3.0 and 4.5 stars for their quality and challenge. Rufous (5.12a) pushes into the upper difficulty range, enticing those honing their hard sport climbing skills. These established routes provide climbers with a reliable gauge of the wall’s rhythm and style.
For gear, expect sport climbing set-ups with fixed anchor bolts accessible near the cliff’s lip. Some routes may require cleaning due to loose rock sections, particularly on Orange Wall’s steeper faces. Always inspect anchors before climbing and approach the cliff edge with caution. A helmet is strongly advised given the presence of rubble and loose stone.
Descending Long Wall typically involves rappelling from anchors just beneath the cliff tops. Exercise care with loose rock and ensure ropes are securely anchored before making your descent. The approach trail is straightforward but uneven, demanding sturdy footwear and awareness of footing, especially if climbing returns occur near dusk.
Long Wall fits comfortably within the Southwest Oregon climbing scene as a dependable spot combining approachable sport routes with rugged, classic terrain. Its proximity to better-known features like Cathedral makes it a perfect stop for climbers looking to extend their day with solid pitches on varied rock. The climbing community here appreciates the balance of challenge and accessibility, and the setting provides a chance to focus on technique without the distractions of more crowded areas.
In short, Long Wall invites climbers eager to sharpen their skills on moderately difficult routes featuring solid rock and rewarding sequences, edged by the quiet beauty of Oregon’s wilderness. Whether you’re coming for an afternoon session or weaving it into a larger adventure exploring the same trails, this cliff offers both a practical and inspiring climbing experience primed for thoughtful preparation and respectful engagement with the terrain.
Anchors are located just under the cliff lip and loose rock extends right up to the edge. Climbers should approach these top sections carefully to avoid dislodging debris. Wearing a helmet is strongly recommended due to loose rubble, especially on the steeper right side of the cliff.
Approach via the trail past Cloud Buttress; the cliff line is visible on your right.
Exercise caution near the cliff edge—loose rubble and exposed anchors demand mindfulness.
Expect moderately sustained climbs in the 5.11 to 5.12 range on quality rock left side.
Check and clean holds if climbing steeper climbs on the Orange Wall, where rock can be less stable.
Routes are primarily bolted sport climbs with anchors positioned just below the cliff lip. Some routes on Orange Wall may require cleaning due to loose rock and debris buildup. Bring a standard sport rack and helmet for protection against loose rubble near anchors.
Upload your photos of and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.