"Raining Chickens challenges climbers with a unique mix of crack climbs, slab moves, and a tricky clip just off the deck. Perfect for those ready to fine-tune their technique on solid Colorado granite, this single-pitch sport route offers a memorable balance of adventure and practical climbing."
Raining Chickens opens before you with a broad boulder anchoring the start, guiding your eyes toward a deep, inviting crack capped by a small roof. From here, the climb demands precise footwork and thoughtful route reading. Instead of following the crack directly, you veer right, circumventing the roof before moving left along a slab that tests your balance and commitment. Below another modest roof, the route nudges you to the right, requiring a short bushwhack around sparse vegetation to reach the next bolt—a move that marks a transition from straightforward climbing to an engaging sequence just off the ground. This stretch might push you to consider an additional bolt for safer clipping, as the last fixed point feels a bit distant and demands carefully calculated moves to clip efficiently. Climbers have varied in their path around this section, with some taking a rightward line to the bolt while others choose left; this flexibility adds an element of personal style mixed into the ascent.
Reaching the top of the pinnacle, the route rewards effort with a handful of satisfying laybacks and sidepulls that carry you to the shared anchor system, offering a smooth finish to a single-pitch challenge. The rock here features solid friction and edges that reward precise hand positioning, encouraging steady movement rather than brute strength.
Chicken Head Ranch itself sits within the Devil's Head area near South Platte, Colorado, a destination known for its mix of rugged granite features and accessible climbing options. Raining Chickens is a sport climb that, despite its modest length of 90 feet, offers a rich blend of technical moves and subtle route-finding, making it well suited for climbers who appreciate dynamic positioning with an emphasis on balance and nuance.
In planning your ascent, quickdraws are essential, as protection is fixed on bolts with shared anchors—these bolts remain reliable, though some sections intimate the need for cautious clipping strategies. Approaching from the trailhead, expect a brief hike over uneven terrain peppered with scrub vegetation, signaling the wilderness character of this spot. The climb faces southwest, bathing in afternoon sun but catching fresh breezes that keep the heat manageable during warmer months. Early season through fall provides the best conditions, avoiding icy patches that occasionally linger on shaded sections.
Stay alert during the approach, as bushwhacking around the mid-route bolt requires attention to foot placement and brush, though nothing too invasive to derail a focused ascent. Descent is straightforward—rappelling from the shared anchors or downclimbing the low-angle slab back to the base.
Raining Chickens offers a gateway to technical sport climbing in a fascinating landscape. Its approachable grade hides subtle challenges, rewarding climbers who balance patience with intent. For those eager to explore beyond, the nearby routes in the Devil’s Head area extend opportunities to deepen skills within an enchanting part of Colorado’s climbing scene.
The clip just beyond the last bolt requires caution, as reaching it involves moves close to the ground without protection. A potential additional bolt could mitigate this, but until then, careful body positioning and clip technique are vital to avoid falls.
Prepare for a short bushwhack near the mid-route bolt; sturdy footwear helps.
Approach trail can be uneven—watch your step for loose rock and brush.
Climb in afternoon for optimal sun exposure and warmer rock grip.
Carry extra draws in case a mid-route bolt upgrade has been added.
Standard quickdraw set is necessary for clipping the bolts. Shared anchors with Super Chicken route benefit from solid rappel gear. Consider an extra bolt near the mid-route clip for added safety due to reach challenges.
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