Rabbit Ears (Rogue) - Idaho’s Unique Alpine Rock Experience

Roseburg, Oregon, Idaho
andesite rock
alpine experience
single pitch
volcanic plugs
short approach
seasonal closure
mixed protection
Length: 80-120 ft
Type: Mixed
Stars
Pitches
Single pitch
Protected Place
Umpqua National Forest
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"The Rabbit Ears offer climbers a distinctive alpine rock adventure on volcanic plugs rising from the forested landscape. With accessible routes ranging from 5.4 to 5.11 and a brief approach, this area combines varied climbing challenges with serene natural surroundings and seasonal wildlife protections."

Rabbit Ears (Rogue) - Idaho’s Unique Alpine Rock Experience

The Rabbit Ears stand out in Idaho’s climbing scene as a compelling destination for those chasing a genuine alpine rock experience without the demands of a towering peak. These two volcanic plugs thrust boldly from the earth, forming striking shapes resembling rabbit ears from particular vantage points. Unlike traditional mountains, these formations offer intimate, focused climbing that rewards both the mind and body. The rock here is andesite, a volcanic stone known for solid holds and varied features, providing a rewarding range of routes from 5.4 to 5.11.

For climbers eager to reach the summit, ascents happen a handful of times annually, often lending an exclusive feel to the experience. More commonly, climbers explore the lower apron where a collection of technical climbs awaits. The climbs range widely in difficulty and character, making the area suitable for intermediate and advanced enthusiasts seeking a challenge amid peaceful wilderness. The area’s compact size adds to its charm, with room to camp for about 4 to 5 vehicles, immersed in the quiet stillness of the forest.

Approaching the Rabbit Ears is straightforward and brief. From I-5, head east through Roseburg onto Highway 138, skirting along to Diamond Lake before connecting to Highway 230. A series of forest service roads—6510, 6520, and 6515—lead you directly to the base of these volcanic outcrops. The approach trail from the parking area to the first ear is just five minutes, meaning more time can be dedicated to climbing rather than hiking. Weather is typical of the Southwest Oregon/Cascade foothills, with prime climbing months best falling outside the wet winter and spring seasons.

Seasonal wildlife concerns add a layer of responsibility here. The Rabbit Ears are home to nesting Peregrine Falcons between January 1 and July 31, triggering access closures to protect these birds. Planning your trip outside this period ensures an unimpeded climbing experience while supporting ongoing conservation efforts.

Among the classic climbs on offer, standout names include Arching Crack (5.10c), Arete (5.10a), and Rain Dance (5.10a). Rain Dance and Slippery Gold (5.10a) receive praise for their engaging moves and well-protected lines, demonstrating the area’s capacity to challenge and delight climbers. The harder Gavin’s Straight Up (5.11) tests technique and stamina, offering seasoned climbers a worthy project. Other enjoyable routes like Slippery When Wet (5.9) and Tricks are for Kids (5.7) provide approachable challenges for newer climbers or those seeking a less intense outing.

Despite its alpine feel, the rock’s andesite texture allows confident placement of gear, with many climbs featuring a mix of bolt-protected sport sections and traditional placements. A single pitch format dominates the area, making it ideal for climbers wanting quick laps with varied terrain.

The Rabbit Ears’ remote but accessible location enhances the experience. You’re surrounded by forests, with vistas of nearby wilderness and the crag itself visible from the road, serving as both beacon and landmark. The elevation sits around 5,600 feet, offering cool air at altitude and clear mountain light that can shift rapidly, so come prepared for sudden weather changes.

Safety considerations include seasonal closures and the need for careful planning regarding weather and wildlife. The short approach simplifies logistics but watch for navigating forest service roads and ensure your vehicle is suited for gravel surfaces. Once at the base, climbers will appreciate the solid rock quality, but vigilance around delicate falcon nesting habitats is critical.

Whether you’re chasing the challenge of Rain Dance or simply seeking a quiet alpine route to satisfy climbing urges, Rabbit Ears offers a focused, rugged adventure set against the quiet grandeur of Southern Oregon’s volcanic landscape. This is an area where climbing and nature connect directly—where every move on the rock invites you to be present and prepared for the mountain’s unique demands. With its varied routes, approachable access, and seasonal stewardship, Rabbit Ears remains a treasured destination for those who respect tradition and exploration in equal measure.

Climber Safety

Be mindful of seasonal closures protecting Peregrine Falcon nests from January to late July. Loose rock isn’t common but always wear a helmet and exercise caution on approach roads, which can be rough and narrow. Weather can change quickly at 5,600 feet elevation—carry gear for sudden cold or wet conditions.

Area Details

TypeMixed
PitchesSingle pitch
Length80-120 feet

Local Tips

Visit outside of Peregrine Falcon nesting season (Jan 1 - July 31) to avoid closures.

Prepare for a short 5-minute approach from the parking area; the trail is straightforward but forested.

Check your vehicle’s clearance for forest service roads, especially FS 6510 and FS 6515.

Bring layered clothing to handle variable weather at 5,600 feet elevation.

Area Rating

Quality
Consensus:The grades at Rabbit Ears span from beginner-friendly 5.7 routes to challenging 5.11 climbs, with the majority falling within the comfortable intermediate range of 5.9 to 5.10d. The rock quality and protection generally make the ratings feel fair rather than sandbagged. Climbers familiar with Oregon’s Southwest crags will find these routes similarly engaging without being overly stiff or overly soft, striking a balanced challenge across the area.

Gear Requirements

Routes here range from sport to mixed protection, with solid andesite rock allowing for secure placements. A typical rack with a full range of cams and nuts is recommended, alongside quickdraws for bolted sections. Due to single pitch routes, minimal rappel gear is needed but a helmet and attention to loose rock remain important.

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Tags

andesite rock
alpine experience
single pitch
volcanic plugs
short approach
seasonal closure
mixed protection