Tucked along the backside of the Bulge in the renowned Mill Creek Falls region of Southwest Oregon, Joey’s Roof rises as a calling to climbers seeking an honest challenge within a stunning, accessible landscape. At an elevation of 2,421 feet, this compact bouldering feature invites both locals and travelers to savor the physicality and focus needed to top out one of the area’s most respected lines.

Joey’s Roof doesn’t overwhelm with a vast spread of problems, but what it does offer is a testpiece that rewards dedication and precision. The singular route here – Joey’s Roof (V5) – carries a near-legendary reputation in the local circuit, buoyed by a 4.5-star user rating that captures its blend of athletic movement and aesthetic lines. As you approach the bloc, pine needles crunch beneath your feet and the hush of the forest guides your attention skyward to the shaded, steep face waiting above. The tranquility of this spot belies the pump and persistence that the climb demands.

This area excels as an early stop for a wider tour of the Mill Creek boulders, making it a prime target for a focused session or as a warm-up before tackling the deeper pockets of the canyon. Approach is straightforward – the backside of the Bulge is a few minutes off the park’s main trail network, keeping you close to the action without the endurance-sapping hikes found at some remote crags. You’ll want to keep an eye on seasonal conditions, as spring and fall usher in the most favorable friction and kinder temps. Summer afternoons can be warm unless you catch the early shade, and damp winter months see fewer climbers due to wetness.

Joey’s Roof (V5) demands a cool head and crisp technique. Its movements define the style that puts Mill Creek Falls on the map: powerful pulls, subtle footwork, and a satisfying finish that always feels earned. Because it’s a single boulder, you won’t find crowds, but strong climbers are drawn here year-round to test themselves and chase the pride of a clean send. The landings are good but not completely flat, so bring at least one or two quality pads and a friend for spotting – safety here still matters, especially on an otherwise forgiving block.

On your walk in, look for telltale signs of recent use – cleaned holds, chalk, and the faint trail that threads through ferns and moss. The sense of community here is quiet but present; the stone shows the touch of determined climbers past, all drawn by a line that has become a rite of passage for those in the know. There’s no need for a rack or cumbersome gear – everything relies on skin, shoes, and trust in the rock beneath your grip.

As you finish your session and take in the forested surroundings, it’s clear why Joey’s Roof has become an essential tick for boulderers passing through Southwest Oregon. This is pure, simple bouldering at its finest: inspiring movement, a beautiful setting, and the promise of progress with every effort.