5.10c, Sport
Nuevo Leon
Mexico
"Quick Draw Mcgraw unfolds over two pitches of sustained sport climbing in El Potrero Chico’s rugged limestone. Starting with a technical 5.10c face move and finishing with a demanding 5.11a pitch, it challenges climbers to maintain focus and precision in southwest Mexico’s intense sun."
Quick Draw Mcgraw stands out at El Potrero Chico as a test of precision and power across its two pitches, offering climbers an intense taste of northern Mexico’s limestone sport routes. The climb starts on a sharply contoured face just to the right of a shallow corner. For those seeking a gentler introduction, stepping into the corner reduces the difficulty significantly, but pushing up the face challenges climbers at a crisp 5.10c grade. The limestone here rewards careful footwork, with sharp edges and pockets that feel alive beneath your fingertips.
The second pitch sharpens the challenge further, locking climbers into a technical 5.11a sequence. This pitch avoids the large left-facing dihedral nearby, requiring steadier balance and confident movement on a near-vertical wall. The rock itself carries a dry texture that encourages precise placements—there’s little margin for hesitation when threading between holds.
El Potrero Chico’s towering limestone cliffs rise from an arid scrubland that bakes under intense sun. The approach winds through sparse vegetation and patches of cactus, setting an alert tone before the climb begins. Climbers should expect temperatures that climb quickly, so starting early in the day ensures cooler conditions and steadier hands. The route’s bolted protection, consisting of 18 well-spaced bolts paired with solid anchors, allows for a focused, clip-in clipping rhythm, but the lengths between bolts reward thoughtful gear management and calm composure.
Beyond the physical demands, Quick Draw Mcgraw offers a raw connection with the environment. The rock’s sharp silhouette against the expansive northern sky invites observation of shifting winds and the arid landscape below. After climbing, descending by rappel feels swift but requires vigilance — the edges are clean but exposed, and the heat can dry out skin, making grip on rappel devices crucial.
Whether you’re a seasoned climber aiming to sharpen your sport lead skills or someone ready to push past the 5.10 ceiling, Quick Draw Mcgraw delivers a rewarding challenge framed by the striking setting of El Potrero Chico. Preparation is key: bring plenty of water, wear sturdy shoes suited for edging, and plan your climb for morning hours to catch the rock before it sizzles. This route doesn’t just test your strength—it demands focus and respect for the rock’s distinct character.
Watch for loose rock near the edges on the approach and rappel stations. Ensure your anchor knots and rappel devices are properly secured, as the descent features exposed edges and minimal ledges.
Start climbs early to avoid midday heat and harsh sunlight.
Use climbing shoes with precise edging capability for the sharp limestone features.
Hydrate thoroughly—bring at least two liters of water per climber.
Double-check rappel gear and knot security as descent edges are exposed.
The route is secured by 18 bolts equipped with solid anchors at each belay station, providing reliable protection. Bolts are spaced to test your lead confidence, so clip carefully and maintain smooth rope management.
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