HomeClimbingQuagmire Crack

Quagmire Crack: A Bold Finger Crack in Squamish

Squamish, British Columbia Canada
finger crack
offwidth finish
single pitch
trad
Squamish
rocky approach
technical protection
Length: 140 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Quagmire Crack
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"A demanding, sustained finger crack in the quieter reaches of Squamish’s Quagmire Area, Quagmire Crack challenges climbers with precise protection placements and a bold offwidth finish. Perfect for those eager to escape crowded climbs and dive into a raw, tactile trad experience."

Quagmire Crack: A Bold Finger Crack in Squamish

Quagmire Crack offers climbers a challenging, finger-jamming experience tucked into the rugged Quagmire Area near Squamish, British Columbia. This single-pitch tradition climb stretches roughly 140 feet up a steep, finger-width crack that demands precision, focus, and solid technique. Approached less frequented by most, Quagmire Crack remains off the mainstream radar—an adventurous choice for those eager to escape the busier routes and test their skills on a line that doesn’t compromise on difficulty. The route rates at 5.10c, but many feel it pushes closer to 10d territory with a sustained, physical finger crack that requires consistent effort from the first jam to the offwidth finish. The climb is reminiscent in challenge of the last pitch on Liquid Gold, offering a sustained finger crack followed by a demanding layback finish that keeps climbers engaged and committed.

The route begins from a bolted belay station perched on a solid ledge, providing a reassuring start before plunging into the deeply featured crack system. Protecting this route means carrying a well-rounded rack focused on finger-sized cams supplemented by a collection of nuts for added security. Placements can be tight and precise, so having an array, especially duplicates in the smaller sizes (¼" to ½"), will keep the protection confident and consistent throughout. The climb finishes on an offwidth section, which is bold and requires a more assertive approach—here, the protection shifts to larger cams, such as a #2 or even a #4 if you want extra peace of mind. The belay at the top is tree-based, approachable for a confident anchor setup, though a two-bolt anchor lies just north, likely a relic from when vegetation once cluttered the finish.

Getting to the climb is a short but deliberate hike through the Quagmire Area, which feels quiet and somewhat untouched compared to Squamish’s busier crags. The approach meanders through rugged forest and rocky terrain, a clear nudge to prepare adequately with good footwear and leave-evidence-behind ethics. Jacobs Ladder lies just above, providing an interesting descent or extension with its 5.8 traverse across a dyke feature. This section is bold and requires solid feet and headspace, making it a suitable follow-up or alternative exit for those confident in their movement outside the crack system.

Weather conditions can change quickly in the coastal rainforest environment surrounding Squamish, so planning climbs like this on stable, dry days is crucial. The rock is generally solid but watch for moss or moisture in shaded areas early in the day or after rain. Mid-morning to mid-afternoon offers the best light and dry rock, with the south-facing wall pulling in enough sun to warm up but not scorch climbers.

Quagmire Crack is a perfect route for intermediate to advanced trad climbers who are comfortable managing sustained finger cracks and offwidth finishes without relying heavily on fixed gear. It rewards commitment, careful gear management, and a willingness to get hands and feet deeply engaged in the rock’s features. The line's subtle remoteness and the quiet approach add to its appeal—an iconic Squamish experience that is simultaneously fulfilling and raw.

For those looking to step beyond Squamish’s well-trodden classics, Quagmire Crack offers a bold test of finger strength and mental grit in a setting rich with coastal forest sounds and craggy mountain views. Preparation, respect for the fragile rainforest environment, and a sound understanding of traditional protection will set you up for success on this memorable finger crack.

Climber Safety

The offwidth finish requires confident body positioning and protection placement—fall potential here is significant if hesitating. Gear placements can be tricky in the finger cracks; keep a close eye on placement security. Approach trails can be slippery after rain, so wear sturdy boots and move deliberately.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length140 feet

Local Tips

Bring a double rack of cams focusing on finger sizes and small nuts for steady protection.

Start climbing mid-morning to avoid damp conditions in shaded cracks.

Use Jacobs Ladder (5.8 dyke traverse) above the finish for a bold exit or descent alternative.

Watch out for moss on the lower crack early in the season—ensure the rock is dry before committing.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10c
Quality
Consensus:While officially rated 5.10c, many climbers find Quagmire Crack leans toward a 10d challenge thanks to sustained finger jams and a bold offwidth finish. The route demands continuous precision, with a fairly stiff crux near the top reminiscent of notable final pitches on other local classics. Unlike some Squamish 10c routes that may break into easier sections, this climb maintains consistent difficulty throughout.

Gear Requirements

Long 40 to 45 meter pitch needing plenty of finger-sized cams paired with nuts; duplicate sizes from 1/4" to 1/2" recommended. A #2 cam placed near the offwidth start helps protect the bold layback finish, where a #4 cam may provide added security. Bolted belay at the base and tree belay at the summit.

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Tags

finger crack
offwidth finish
single pitch
trad
Squamish
rocky approach
technical protection