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Purple Corner: A Bold Trad Climb on Cactus Cliff

Canon City, Colorado USA
finger crack
chimney
single pitch
crux
Shelf Road
Colorado trad
rock protection
dry conditions
Length: 80 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Purple Corner
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Purple Corner challenges climbers with a classic finger crack and chimney combo high on Cactus Cliff near Canon City. It’s a focused trad climb offering a mix of technical jams and a gritty finish, all wrapped in sweeping Colorado canyon views."

Purple Corner: A Bold Trad Climb on Cactus Cliff

Purple Corner stands as an inviting yet gritty single-pitch trad route resting on the rugged face of Cactus Cliff, just beyond the ghostly beauty of Shelf Road near Canon City, Colorado. This route promises more than just a climb—it offers a tactile conversation with the rock, a test of technique with its finger crack and challenging chimney sections. Beginning just right of the infamous Six Pack O' Whoop-Ass, Purple Corner demands you engage immediately with the rock's personality. The finger crack pulls you upward like a hand beckoning you to trust your jamming skills, while the corner system invites a blend of stemming and chimneying that teeters on the edge of commitment.

Approaching two-thirds up, you'll confront the route’s defining moment—a subtle crux requiring finesse to reach a narrow ledge topped by a sparse Charlie Brown Christmas tree. This small platform offers both relief and a chance to breathe before the final ascent, which grows a bit rougher and covered in the dust of less-traveled terrain. The holds soften, the granite grows slightly gritty, and your senses heighten to every foot placement and hand jam.

Despite its modest length of 80 feet, Purple Corner delivers concentrated quality and challenge. Protection ranges up to 4 inches, making a solid rack essential, particularly because placing gear in the finger crack and upper chimney requires precision. While the route is featured in Bob D'Antonio’s 2010 guidebook and has roots in the vintage beta photos archived on various climbing sites, it maintains a timeless draw for those seeking authentic trad exposure without the complexities of multi-pitch routes.

At the top, a decent yet unstable tree awaits as an anchor point for bringing up a second climber or for a simple walk-off descent, though the looseness of this anchor rules out top-roping as a reliable option. The approach to the cliff is straightforward, crossing open forest terrain sprinkled with junipers and piñon pines that feel alive with the dry Colorado air, while the backdrop offers sweeping views of the lower canyons and distant mountain folds.

If you crave a route that balances raw hand-jamming with the visceral pleasure of climbing on traditionally protected cracks, Purple Corner delivers a genuine taste of Shelf Road’s climbing culture. It’s a route that rewards preparedness—bring solid finger-size cams, hydrate well in the typically dry conditions, and time your ascent in the cooler hours to avoid the afternoon sun baking the rock surface. Expect an earthy, tactile climb where every movement counts, and the rock’s texture guides your rhythm. Purple Corner invites climbers seeking to sharpen their trad skills within a unique Colorado landscape that remains both approachable and honest.

Climber Safety

Be cautious at the top anchor tree; it’s somewhat loose and unreliable for top-roping or heavy loads. Stick to a walk-off descent or bring solid anchors for belaying. Watch out for loose rock in the upper chimney section and always double-check gear placements in the finger crack to avoid surprises.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length80 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid afternoon heat baking the rock.

Use sticky-soled shoes suitable for crack climbing to maximize grip.

Hydrate well—Colorado’s dry air can sap strength quickly.

Approach via the well-marked trail from Shelf Road; allows a 10-15 minute hike.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:The 5.8 rating offers a solid challenge without overwhelming most trad climbers with some experience. The crux, a subtle move to reach a small ledge with the Christmas tree, adds a spicy touch that bumps the effort beyond a straightforward jam. Compared to nearby routes like Six Pack O' Whoop-Ass, Purple Corner feels a bit more technical and less runout, making it a great choice for climbers looking to sharpen upper-body crack skills in a controlled setting.

Gear Requirements

Bring a full rack with cams sizing up to 4 inches. The finger cracks demand precise placements, and while the top anchor is a sizable tree, it’s somewhat loose, so prepare for a walk-off descent rather than top-roping.

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Tags

finger crack
chimney
single pitch
crux
Shelf Road
Colorado trad
rock protection
dry conditions