"Pulp Friction Project offers an unpolished but thrilling trad challenge on Ontario’s Paper Wall. With its demanding crack systems and roof traverse, this route invites climbers to lead a bold, technical pitch set against rugged northern rock and wide wilderness views."
Pulp Friction Project stands as a raw and compelling adventure on the rugged Paper Wall cliffs of Ontario’s northern rock country. This single-pitch trad route, still waiting for its first true lead ascent, invites climbers to test their mettle against exposed cracks and a daring traverse beneath a formidable roof. Approaching from Kama Lookout, the climb demands focus from the first hold, beginning just right of Paper Mache and left of a damp corner that warns of the elements’ steady presence. The initial cracks beckon with promise but caution—the rock here holds the secrets of hard-fought gains and requires trusted gear placements.
Once past the initial crack system, you face a traverse that threads beneath the route’s main roof. The crack above dares you to commit, its presence almost pulsing with challenge and opportunity. Pulling over this roof is the crux move: a test of power balanced with precision, where every finger jam and foot smear counts. Above the roof, the angle eases, delivering a rewarding stretch of easier crack climbing leading to well-placed anchors 100 feet above the base. The route’s grade, tentatively pegged at 5.12a, speaks to its technical demands, but the true difficulty lies in the sequence’s commitment and gear management.
The Paper Wall region feels alive, shaped by ancient granite and the northern winds sweeping from nearby Lake Superior. The approach trail follows mixed terrain, crossing forested ridges and open rocky sections before revealing Kama Bay’s open views. The natural setting here is rugged and elemental; pine and birch trees stand alongside craggy outcrops that catch the late afternoon light. Climbers need to prepare for variable weather and be ready to adjust strategy based on conditions, especially considering the damp corner’s indication of lingering moisture.
Gear for Pulp Friction is straightforward: a standard trad rack covers 1-3 inch cams paired with a set of nuts. Cracks are generous enough for solid placements, but the climb’s unsettled status means climbers should bundle protection prudently and be ready for creative holds. Shoes with sticky but precise soles are a must, as the route rewards delicate footwork across slab and incuts. Hydration and stamina are key; the climb demands concentrated effort but offers a satisfying payoff for those who arrive prepared.
Pulp Friction Project is less a polished classic and more a call to action for adventurous climbers eager to put their skills on the line. Its holding pattern—part challenge, part mystery—creates a compelling mix of anticipation and adrenaline. This is a route that combines the wild appeal of a raw granite wall with the clear, practical logistics of trad climbing in a unique northern setting.
Watch for damp sections near the start, particularly after wet weather, as moisture can make crack jams slippery. Protection placements require attention: while gear is generally solid, poor placement or rushing can increase risk. The roof move demands careful route reading to avoid unexpected falls.
Approach via Kama Lookout trail with sturdy shoes for mixed terrain and rocky footing.
Check local weather as damp cracks near the start can be slippery after rain or morning dew.
Bring a full trad rack focusing on medium-sized cams and nuts for secure protection.
Plan your ascent in mid to late morning to avoid early chill and take advantage of steady light on the wall.
Standard trad rack including cams from 1-3 inches and nuts. The crack systems provide solid placement opportunities, and sticky, precise climbing shoes are recommended for technical footwork, especially on the key roof traverse and subsequent slab.
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