"Psychovino's Spaghetti Hell delivers a solid 60-foot sport climb on the walls of St. Vrain Canyon. Featuring a distinctive channel crux, secure bolts, and a tricky mantle topout, this route balances technical moves with reliable protection, making it a dependable outing for intermediate climbers in Colorado’s rugged landscape."
Psychovino's Spaghetti Hell offers a straightforward yet engaging sport climb that challenges the climber with a blend of technical moves and solid protection. Located along the South Fork of St. Vrain Canyon near Lyons, Colorado, this 60-foot route stands out for its clean face climbing punctuated by a distinctive channel crux and a topout that tests balance and technique. The ascent begins with approachable climbing on a smooth face, inviting climbers to find rhythm before confronting the key obstacle: a long reach over a well-protected channel that demands precision and commitment. The channel acts almost like a dynamic actor on this vertical stage, daring you to move boldly past.
Beyond the crux, the climb continues onto a ledge filled with loose scree, requiring extra caution since these pebbles can cascade down, potentially bothering your belayer. This subtle interaction between the rock and gravity adds a lively unpredictability to the climb, emphasizing attentiveness throughout the transition. After surmounting the ledge, a quirky move near a corner leads into a lichen-speckled face where a left hand side-pull points the way upward. Climbers then navigate two bolts, one set prominently on the face and another near the ledge floor, before a series of mantles and a block move open the path to the top.
The route is protected by six closely spaced bolts, making it ideal for climbers comfortable with sport routes seeking a moderate challenge. Though generally well-protected, adding shoulder-length slings can reduce rope drag on some pitches, enhancing the climbing flow. The climb tops out on a broad, secure ledge equipped with a reliable anchor featuring two bolts—one anchored with a chain—and a piton, providing safe and efficient belay options.
Approaching the route involves a moderate hike into the South Fork of St. Vrain Canyon, a rugged environment known for its steep walls and accessible climbing destinations. The area’s weather and seasonal conditions play a role in planning your trip: spring through fall delivers the best climbing windows when the sun lights up the walls without overheating the holds. Early morning ascents benefit from cool shade cast by the canyon’s orientation, while afternoon sun can dry damp rock quickly, useful after wet conditions.
For climbers aiming to tackle Psychovino's Spaghetti Hell, the surrounding landscape offers more than just rock: it whispers the story of alpine streams cutting through granite basins and piñon pines swaying in steady mountain breezes. This environment frames the climb with a rugged authenticity, removing distractions and focusing the mind on the moves ahead.
Preparation calls for sturdy footwear with precise edging capability, a well-practiced belayer versed in managing debris dislodged by scree, and a mindset open to steady movement rather than explosive power. Hydration and sun protection remain essential given the exposed nature of the approach and the clear sky exposure during peak hours.
Although the rating reads 5.9-, this route may feel softer than many in the area due to ample protection and a lack of extended crux sections, making it an excellent option for those honing their technique on sport terrain. It suits climbers looking to balance a captivating outdoor challenge with a climb that respects both skill and safety. Within the broader St. Vrain Canyons, Psychovino's Spaghetti Hell stands out as a dependable climb that rewards attention to detail and appreciation for subtle route features.
Descend by downclimbing carefully to the belay ledge, then rappel from the fixed anchors on the roomy topout ledge. Watch your step on loose rock during descent, and always double-check anchor integrity before lowering off. When set up thoughtfully, the descent offers a smooth finish to a route rich with character and a clear practical edge.
In sum, Psychovino's Spaghetti Hell invites climbers into a focused vertical challenge, blending precise movement, reliable protection, and natural elements that engage both senses and skill. This is climbing pared down to its essentials, framed by the rugged beauty of Colorado's St. Vrain Canyons. Prepare well, move steadily, and you’ll find a rewarding outing that hones ability and respect for the rock.
Loose scree on the upper ledge can send small rocks downward unexpectedly; helmets for both climber and belayer are strongly advised. Be mindful while mantel-ing to avoid disturbing unstable stones that may threaten below. Always inspect the fixed piton and chain anchor before descent.
Watch carefully for loose pebbles on the scree ledge to avoid hitting your belayer.
Use slings to ease rope drag, especially around the channel crux and corner moves.
Plan your climb for spring through fall to avoid icy or wet rock conditions.
Double-check the anchor chain and piton before rappelling for added security.
Six bolts secure the route with a solid anchor on top featuring two bolts, one with a chain, and a piton. Carry a few shoulder-length slings to reduce rope drag through the crux channel and around corners. Helmets recommended due to loose scree on the top ledge.
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