"Prey, known locally as Sarah’s Crack, offers a deep, inviting fissure ideal for those new to traditional climbing. A single pitch with straightforward protection sets the stage for confident first adventures into crack climbing at Squamish’s Smoke Bluffs."
In the verdant expanse of British Columbia’s Squamish region, Prey—commonly called Sarah’s Crack by local climbers—stands out as an inviting corridor for those stepping into traditional climbing. This single-pitch route, stretching just over 50 feet, offers a clean, well-defined crack that beckons novices eager to test their skills in a natural setting that rewards steady technique and calm focus. The crack itself is generous, deep enough to accommodate a solid hand- or fist-sized jam, making gear placements straightforward yet teaching the essentials of crack climbing without the pressure of high difficulty.
Your journey begins within the Smoke Bluffs, a climbing mecca known for its accessible routes and scenic views, located near the small town of Squamish. The air here carries the fresh scent of cedar and fir, occasionally interrupted by the distant call of ravens circling overhead. As you approach the base, smooth granite faces invite you to imagine the flow of water that once carved these features—now ready to challenge your grip and daring.
Protection is standard trad rack territory: cams and nuts from small to medium sizes will comfortably secure you in the crack’s natural fissures. Climbers appreciate the route’s straightforwardness, which balances a tactile connection to the rock with manageable mental engagement—ideal for honing footwork and hand jams. Despite its moderate 5.5 rating, this climb has enough texture and exposure to keep you alert, particularly where the crack narrows and demands precise placements.
Planning your climb here means preparing for moderate exposure to sun or shade depending on the time of day, with late morning to early afternoon proving best for warmth without the risk of slick surfaces from morning dew. Arrive early in the day to enjoy quieter trails and fewer crowds, as this popular spot draws a mix of local weekend warriors and travelers alike. Though the approach is short, good trail shoes are recommended for the moderately rocky terrain, and bringing enough water remains essential, as the forested surroundings can mask thirst until it’s noticeable.
Descent from the top of Prey is a simple downclimb back to the base, though climbers should watch for loose rock near the landing zone and exercise careful footing on the uneven granite slabs. The Smoke Bluffs area offers an excellent introduction to trad climbing in Squamish’s diverse rock landscape and serves as a gateway to more demanding routes beyond.
Prey’s approachable length and rating make it both a confidence-builder and a gentle challenge, embedding climbers in an environment where the rock’s personality reveals itself through grip, placement, and rhythm. Whether you’re fitting your first cams or refining crack technique, this route’s accessible vertical slice of Squamish granite stands ready to engage you in the timeless dialogue between climber and stone.
While protection is straightforward, be cautious near the top where blocks can shift and loose rock is present. The granite slabs on descent can be slippery when wet, so plan accordingly and downclimb carefully.
Start early to avoid crowds and catch optimal morning light on the climb.
Wear shoes with solid edging to handle the granite approach and slick slabs.
Carry 2 liters of water; forest shade can mask hydration needs until late.
Double-check your cam placements between the wider and narrower sections of the crack.
Standard trad rack with a focus on cams and nuts from small to medium sizes will protect the climb effectively. The crack is deep and consistent, making placements reliable and intuitive for less experienced trad climbers.
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