Preakness offers climbers a focused, technical trad experience on the sheer faces of Palisade Mountain within Colorado’s Big Thompson Canyon. This route unlocks a compelling line up the wall, combining an initial challenging bulge with sustained hand cracks and a final push along thin corners. The climb’s 80-foot vertical journey typically unfolds over four pitches, though the highlight is the fresh first pitch that establishes a bold, direct start just left of well-known routes Sea Biscuit and Funky Gold Patina.

From the base, the approach to Preakness cues you into the rich character of Big Thompson Canyon’s granite cliffs. Starting just 15 feet left of the largest left-facing dihedral, the first pitch demands attention immediately with an awkward bulge that serves as its crux. Climbers navigate this move with a mix of tension and precision before reaching a large rectangular inset, roughly 12 inches wide by 8 feet tall, that acts as a natural resting point. Just beneath this feature, a subtle rightward traverse along an easy undercling guides you into a large corner under a considerable roof. This section, cleaned of loose rock and shrubbery, tests balance and calm, particularly where a delicate, sharp-edged plate clings to the right wall. The pitch taps into classic hand crack technique at 5.7+ difficulty, rewarding steady jamming as you move upward toward a flat ledge where you set your belay.

Pitch two shifts direction with a bold traverse to the left, introducing a sense of exposure reminiscent of some of the finest cracks in the region. This section carries a 5.7+ rating and offers expansive views of the canyon below, amplifying the thrill of movement across rock that appears to float above the valley floor. The traverse leads to upper Sea Biscuit's signature three-star crack, providing a satisfying hand crack climbing sequence that climbers will find both approachable and engaging. The pitch concludes with a two-bolt anchor visible from the ground, making communication and anchor management straightforward.

The third pitch steps into the sport climbing realm on Funky Gold Patina, rated .10b, with bolted protection easing the technical demands. A 20-meter stretch of varied moves here balances athleticism with route-finding, and sets the stage for the final pitch.

Pitch four presents a physically committed finish on a west-facing wall, navigating a thin crack with stemming and finger jams at 5.10 difficulty. The steep, inset seam demands precise technique and mental focus as you ascend toward the summit block. Approaching from the north side, climbers find established rappel anchors that offer two fixed 30-meter rappels directly back to the base camp, setting the stage for a smooth descent and well-earned rest.

Gear requirements emphasize a full rack of cams extending up to #4 BD size; nuts are optional but less useful here given the lack of suitable placements. This route is well suited for climbers comfortable with cracks and exposed traverses, keen to link multiple pitches into a coherent, direct line up Palisade’s walls.

The climb’s location near Estes Park offers the benefits of accessibility combined with the rugged solitude of Big Thompson Canyon, which is prized for clear granite and moderate traffic on the routes. Although the crux resides in the first pitch’s bulge, the remainder of the climb is fairly consistent in difficulty, with an enjoyable blend of moderate technical challenges and stunning views. Summer through early fall provides the best conditions, as the northwest aspect sheltering the wall keeps it shaded during the afternoon heat.

In addition to the climbing itself, the approach trails wind through mixed forest and open rocky slopes, where pine trees push their scents into the air and coyotes occasionally call from hidden hollows. Remember to pack sufficient water since shade is limited on portions of the approach, and start early to avoid afternoon warming.

Preakness is a choice option for climbers seeking a classic trad outing with strategic challenges that test crack technique, route finding, and mental composure. Whether you are connecting it all in a single push or savoring each pitch, the route stands as a smart, direct ascent with tangible rewards at every stage.