"Poultry in Motion slices into Squamish’s famous Gobsmacking Wall with a crisp finger crack climb that demands clean technique and calm precision. This single 120-foot pitch balances delicate moves with solid protection, making it a must-try for climbers looking to sharpen their trad skills amid dramatic mountain views."
Poultry in Motion offers a sharp introduction to trad climbing on the Gobsmacking Wall, a prominent face perched above Shannon Falls in the Squamish area. This single-pitch route stretches 120 feet, inviting climbers into a sequence marked by precise finger jams and a measured rhythm that demands patience and poise. The climb begins from a belay bolt shared with the nearby Man of Leisure route, instantly placing you on the edge of steady challenge. From here, the route angles up and right into a narrow finger crack that requires a long reach and subtle footwork, testing both your flexibility and composure. The rock here feels textured but solid, and each delicate move presses you further along the splitter crack, which opens steadily into hand and finger jams that reward persistence.
Above the crack, the climb transitions toward a slabby topout protected by bolts, where balance becomes as crucial as strength. Sensory details enrich the ascent — the cool forest air carries the distant roar of Shannon Falls, while shafts of sunlight flicker through the towering evergreens surrounding the wall. The granite absorbs and reflects this light, offering visual contrast that helps mark edges and holds. This climb plays with the tension between exposure and control, where the steady placement of gear from fingers up to one inch in cams allows safety without sacrificing flow.
Planning your push means respecting both the physical demands and the environmental elements. The route’s protection leans heavily on smaller cams and nuts, and maintaining careful placements here is non-negotiable for a secure climb. The approach is straightforward and well-traveled, but climbers should prepare for damp patches, as moisture from the nearby falls sometimes extends to the base in cooler months. Bring shoes that balance sensitivity for crack climbing with secure edging, and always keep hydration manageable given the route’s moderate length but technical focus. Ideal climbing windows are spring through early fall, when rock temperatures and weather deliver consistent friction and fewer surprises.
Poultry in Motion embodies the essence of Squamish trad: mentally engaging, physically rewarding, and woven into a dramatic setting that beckons both novices eager to develop crack skills and seasoned climbers seeking a refined test. While not intimidating, it rewards technique over brute force. Take your time, trust your gear, and savor the merging of quiet forest ambiance and persistent granite challenge in each movement upward.
Be mindful when placing protection in the thin finger cracks; some placements require extended reaches and careful judgment. The slabby topout, although bolted, demands attention to foot placement as the rock surface can feel slick, especially in damp conditions. Avoid climbing right after rain or during freeze/thaw cycles.
Approach early to avoid crowding on the popular Gobsmacking Wall.
Use shoes with a good balance of edging and crack sensitivity for the finger jams.
Moisture can linger near the base in the morning — check conditions before starting.
Bring a light rack focused on smaller cams and nuts; large cams are unnecessary.
One full set of nuts and doubles in cams from finger sizes to 1 inch are essential. Focus on precise placements in the finger cracks, ensuring protection on potentially thin sections before the bolted slab topout.
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