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Poultry in Motion at Gobsmacking Wall

Squamish, British Columbia Canada
finger crack
trad
single pitch
technical
slabby topout
Squamish
moderate difficulty
Length: 120 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Poultry in Motion
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Poultry in Motion slices into Squamish’s famous Gobsmacking Wall with a crisp finger crack climb that demands clean technique and calm precision. This single 120-foot pitch balances delicate moves with solid protection, making it a must-try for climbers looking to sharpen their trad skills amid dramatic mountain views."

Poultry in Motion at Gobsmacking Wall

Poultry in Motion offers a sharp introduction to trad climbing on the Gobsmacking Wall, a prominent face perched above Shannon Falls in the Squamish area. This single-pitch route stretches 120 feet, inviting climbers into a sequence marked by precise finger jams and a measured rhythm that demands patience and poise. The climb begins from a belay bolt shared with the nearby Man of Leisure route, instantly placing you on the edge of steady challenge. From here, the route angles up and right into a narrow finger crack that requires a long reach and subtle footwork, testing both your flexibility and composure. The rock here feels textured but solid, and each delicate move presses you further along the splitter crack, which opens steadily into hand and finger jams that reward persistence.

Above the crack, the climb transitions toward a slabby topout protected by bolts, where balance becomes as crucial as strength. Sensory details enrich the ascent — the cool forest air carries the distant roar of Shannon Falls, while shafts of sunlight flicker through the towering evergreens surrounding the wall. The granite absorbs and reflects this light, offering visual contrast that helps mark edges and holds. This climb plays with the tension between exposure and control, where the steady placement of gear from fingers up to one inch in cams allows safety without sacrificing flow.

Planning your push means respecting both the physical demands and the environmental elements. The route’s protection leans heavily on smaller cams and nuts, and maintaining careful placements here is non-negotiable for a secure climb. The approach is straightforward and well-traveled, but climbers should prepare for damp patches, as moisture from the nearby falls sometimes extends to the base in cooler months. Bring shoes that balance sensitivity for crack climbing with secure edging, and always keep hydration manageable given the route’s moderate length but technical focus. Ideal climbing windows are spring through early fall, when rock temperatures and weather deliver consistent friction and fewer surprises.

Poultry in Motion embodies the essence of Squamish trad: mentally engaging, physically rewarding, and woven into a dramatic setting that beckons both novices eager to develop crack skills and seasoned climbers seeking a refined test. While not intimidating, it rewards technique over brute force. Take your time, trust your gear, and savor the merging of quiet forest ambiance and persistent granite challenge in each movement upward.

Climber Safety

Be mindful when placing protection in the thin finger cracks; some placements require extended reaches and careful judgment. The slabby topout, although bolted, demands attention to foot placement as the rock surface can feel slick, especially in damp conditions. Avoid climbing right after rain or during freeze/thaw cycles.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length120 feet

Local Tips

Approach early to avoid crowding on the popular Gobsmacking Wall.

Use shoes with a good balance of edging and crack sensitivity for the finger jams.

Moisture can linger near the base in the morning — check conditions before starting.

Bring a light rack focused on smaller cams and nuts; large cams are unnecessary.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10d
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.10d, Poultry in Motion presents a focused technical challenge rather than an endurance test. The moves feel true to the grade with a distinct crux in the delicate finger crack sequences that separate steady senders from strong crack climbers. The rating isn’t soft—the weight on protection and balance adds subtle tension. Compared to nearby routes like Man of Leisure, this climb offers a more sustained finger crack experience with fewer resting spots.

Gear Requirements

One full set of nuts and doubles in cams from finger sizes to 1 inch are essential. Focus on precise placements in the finger cracks, ensuring protection on potentially thin sections before the bolted slab topout.

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Tags

finger crack
trad
single pitch
technical
slabby topout
Squamish
moderate difficulty