5.10c, Sport
Monterrey
Mexico
"Pom Palm Girl is a 90-foot sport climb at El Potrero Chico known for its challenging thin moves and a tricky crux near the top. Climbers will find a route that balances technical finesse with heady exposure – ideal for those looking to sharpen their sport climbing skills in a striking northern Mexico canyon."
Pom Palm Girl offers a sharp taste of sport climbing at El Potrero Chico’s Plum Wall, where the line boldens just beyond a lone palm tree standing guard below the steep rock face. This 90-foot route demands both finesse and focus, especially near the top where thin, technical moves stretch out and the crux awaits. It’s a climb that rewards precision more than brute force, suited to those eager to push their limits on sport bolts with a taste for delicate footwork and controlled breathing. The approach to Plum Wall threads through rugged canyons, drawing you into northern Mexico's raw climbing scene. Expect a short but intense single pitch that presents an unyielding challenge without the need for complex gear, thanks to well-spaced bolts that lead to solid anchors. The rock is sharp and clean, and the openness of the route means wind can sneak in, so steady hands and clear focus are essential.
This sport route captures the essence of a heady final sequence. A couple of the higher clips are exposed enough to test confidence, nudging climbers to commit fully. Below, the rock offers more straightforward climbing, allowing a rhythm to build before the tension kicks in high above. Sunlight filters unevenly across the faces throughout the day, so early morning or late afternoon climbs provide the most comfortable conditions, avoiding the midday heat and preserving grip on the warm limestone.
For those planning their ascent, lightweight sport gear with quickdraws sized for the clip spacing is recommended, and a moderate fitness level helps in navigating the endurance demands of the upper moves. While only one pitch, Pom Palm Girl packs a rich experience into those 90 feet, inviting climbers to engage deeply with the rock while savoring the surrounding canyon’s stark beauty. Water and shade are scarce on route, so prepare accordingly with sun protection and hydration. The descent is straightforward—a short walk off, easing the transition back to the canyon floor and the next adventure.
In sum, Pom Palm Girl is a compelling stop in El Potrero Chico for climbers who seek clean sport lines with enough bite to leave a lasting impression. The combination of exposed clips, technical cruxing, and a scenic setting shapes a climb both demanding and rewarding, wrapped into a single, memorable pitch.
The upper section contains a couple of exposed bolt clips where hesitation can spike risk. Focus on maintaining calm and clipped draws to prevent any swing falls. The rock is solid but sharp; wearing tape on fingers can reduce skin wear.
Approach early morning or late afternoon to avoid harsh sun and heat.
Use tape or fingertape for extra protection on thin, sharp holds near the top.
Bring at least 8 quickdraws to comfortably clip all bolts.
Stay hydrated – shade is limited on the climb and at the base.
This route is protected by bolts running from the base to the anchors. Bring standard sport climbing gear including a set of quickdraws. Expect a few longer clip runs near the crux, so having a good reach with your draws is helpful.
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