Rising sharply from Squamish’s legendary granite face, Polaris challenges climbers with an unrelenting ten-pitch trad route that blends technical crack climbing with demanding face sequences. Located on The North Walls of The Chief, this 1100-foot line rewards steady commitment and precise gear placements. The approach mirrors the classic Angel’s Crest trail: a rough but direct hike that ascends approximately 200 meters from the North Gully entrance, threading through fir and cedar until you reach the unmistakable left corner marking Polaris’ start. The corridor feels alive with history, each hold worn smooth by decades of climbers who’ve tested their boldness here.

The climbing weaves through steep corners and open walls, combining the tactile pleasure of jamming with the focused tension of delicate face moves. The opening pitch invites you up a right-facing corner past a ledge and through a roof that shifts you rightward to a well-protected belay. This first pitch sets the tone at 5.10b — technical yet accessible for climbers looking to warm into the rhythm. Ascending pitch two, you venture into a steep, open corner lined with cracks and face holds that demand solid footwork and strength. This pitch carries the crux, rated 5.11c, but a clever clip on a bolt can ease the challenge to 5.11a, balancing risk and reward skillfully.

As you push higher, the terrain softens briefly as you slip past flakes and widening cracks before entering a chimney system that funnels you vertically with plenty of options for placement and rests. Yet, no true campfire respite comes on Polaris. The fifth pitch moves you across a balanced boulder and up discontinuous cracks, testing your route-finding abilities and mental endurance. Each belay station feels like a small victory, perched on ledges framed by cedar trees that whisper encouragement on the wind.

Midway through the climb, pitch six demands a sharp focus to navigate a puzzling crux at the corner’s entrance, where some climbers wisely clip the bolt to skip the hardest moves. Beyond this, the sustained corner pitches build toward the upper wall’s white granite face where technical climbing intensifies. Pitch nine throws the steepest challenge, a 5.12a crux combining crack and roof maneuvers that are as committing as they are thrilling. The final pitch, though slightly eased to 5.10c, still requires clean hand jams and smooth footwork to reach the summit belay.

Protection is straightforward but demands a good rack: nuts, a double set of cams to a #2 Camalot, with a #3 and 3.5 sized cam rounding out the essential gear. While bolts offer some security, traditional placements form the backbone of the protection, so familiarizing yourself with crack gear placements is crucial. Rope drag can be an issue in some sections, particularly on pitch two, so careful rope management is a must.

Descending Polaris leads back either by rappelling the route with two ropes or hiking up and right following the path used for Northern Lights. The latter requires route-finding skills and enough stamina to navigate steep forested slopes safely.

Polaris stands as a classic trad adventure, ideally suited to climbers ready for a sustained challenge blending physical and mental stamina. Squamish’s cold granite will test your finger cracks and face strength, while the towering walls offer expansive views that reward every push upward. Proper weather, early starts, and solid gear prep will set you up for an exceptional day on this memorable line.