5.9, Trad
Squamish
Canada
"Point Blank delivers a crisp and demanding crack climb in Squamish’s Smoke Bluffs. With a notable blank section mid-route, this 5.9 trad pitch rewards precision gear placements and deft footwork, perfect for climbers honing crack techniques."
Point Blank in Squamish’s Smoke Bluffs offers a focused and rewarding trad climb that every crack enthusiast should experience. This single-pitch, 80-foot route challenges you with a sequence of clean cracks that demand solid gear placements and thoughtful movement. Starting with welcoming finger cracks that invite precise hand jams, the route then briefly opens into a blank patch, living up to its name. This gap in the rock tests your footwork and balance, compelling you to rely on subtle features and body positioning before rejoining another series of secure cracks.
The rock is typical of the Smoke Bluffs’ granitic face—rough enough to keep your shoes hooked but smooth where it matters, creating a stair-stepping effect through the crack systems. The climb flows through zones of variable crack size, primarily favoring finger-sized nuts and cams, with the occasional section that calls for larger hand-sized gear. This demands a well-rounded rack and careful gear management. The protection zones are generous but require deliberate placements to build confidence before tackling the blank midsection.
Set in a striking outdoors playground roughly 49.7 degrees north and 123.1 degrees west, Point Blank captures the essence of Squamish’s climbing scene: approachable yet authentic, technical yet friendly. The route's exposure is balanced; there’s enough openness to take in the surrounding trees and distant granite slabs without feeling isolated. A moderate level of climbs in the area makes it an excellent afternoon project, whether you’re working on your crack skills or looking to add a benchmark 5.9 trad climb to your logbook.
For those planning their ascent, approach on solid footwear that can handle jagged granite and bring an assortment of finger-to-hand-sized cams and nuts. Early season climbs benefit from dry rock after spring rains, and afternoon sun warms the face, making late morning to early afternoon ideal for climbing. With safety in mind, focus on placing reliable protection before the blank section where moves can get technical and protection less straightforward.
Point Blank’s straightforward logistics combined with technical crack climbing offer both adventure and learning wrapped in one pitch. It’s a slice of Squamish’s famed climbing culture: gritty, precise, and immensely satisfying for those who listen closely to the rock’s demands. Prepare to engage your fingers, mind your gear, and enjoy every handjam earned on this classic route.
The blank section offers limited gear placements, so place protection carefully before reaching it. Watch for loose rock and test all hand- and finger-sized piece placements thoroughly.
Arrive mid-morning or early afternoon for the best sun exposure on the face.
Check the weather in spring to ensure the rock is dry; smoke bluffs granite takes time to dry after rain.
Use climbing shoes with a snug fit to maximize friction in small cracks and edges.
Bring a full range of finger-to-hand-sized protection; the route eats smaller cams, but hand-sized gear helps cover wider sections.
Prepare a rack focused on finger-sized nuts and cams, with a few hand-sized pieces to cover wider cracks. The placements are textbook but require care, especially before the blank section.
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