5.10c, Trad, Alpine
Castlegar
Canada
"Point and Hope is a compelling three-pitch trad climb on Big Horn Wall, blending crisp right-facing corners and delicate moss-covered ledges. Ideal for alpine trad enthusiasts seeking a sustained challenge in British Columbia’s wild Kootenays West."
Point and Hope, also known as French Free, offers an alpine trad experience that blends raw rock texture with ever-changing natural elements, set high on Big Horn Wall in British Columbia's rugged Kootenays West. This three-pitch climb spans 300 feet, inviting climbers to engage with the mountain’s layered character—from the sharp right-facing corners to the moss-tinged ledges that test your footing and focus. The first pitch begins on a patch of lichen-coated rock, encouraging careful foot placement before reaching a broad crack that slides smoothly into a clean corner. For those seeking a slightly less technical approach, an alternate line skirts the crack by ascending a mossy, tree-lined corner toward the same belay ledge, easing in at a 5.8 difficulty.
Pitch two intensifies the challenge, introducing a main right-facing corner where solid granite grips await. The climb here tests your ability to read the rock’s subtle variations and maintain steady balance under the 5.10c rating. The belay just before the imposing roof is a welcome reprieve, perched comfortably on dependable gear placements. Beyond that roof, pitch three moves through a tightening corner before easing onto more approachable ground crowned by a solitary tree for the final belay. Slippery sections coated in lichen remind you to stay attentive to each step, especially when the rock feels slick beneath your fingers.
As with many alpine climbs, descent demands respect and preparation. Rappelling off the trees to the climb’s right side is the safest way down, followed by a mindful scramble around adjacent bluffs back to the base. Standard trad gear fits the protection needs well, providing straightforward rack options without the necessity for exotic cams or nuts.
Point and Hope occupies a striking spot in the Kootenays’ alpine landscape, where quiet wilderness edges meet vertical challenge. While the climb doesn’t demand extended approach hikes, expect forested trails leading to the base that carry you through stands of fir and cedar, each step enhancing your connection to the natural environment. The ambient sounds of rustling branches and distant birdcalls heighten the sense of immersion, as the mountain feels both alive and watchful.
To maximize your day, consider timing your ascent for mid-morning to early afternoon, when the granite warms under direct sunlight but avoids the harshest afternoon heat. The wall faces southeast, offering the best conditions through late spring to early fall. Footwear with sticky rubber and a firm sole will aid in navigating slick lichen patches and mossy sections. Carry ample water, as even alpine settings can dry out quickly when exertion intensifies.
This climb sits in a relatively undiscovered corner of British Columbia’s climbing scene, appealing to those who appreciate an alpine trad route with a natural, slightly wild feel. Whether aiming for a solid training effort or simply savoring the mountain’s nuanced offerings, Point and Hope delivers a rewarding balance of technical moves and sensory outdoor immersion.
Be cautious of slick patches caused by lichen and moss, particularly on the third pitch and near the roof section. The descent requires rappelling off trees on the route's right side—ensure your anchors are secure and check for loose debris before committing.
Approach involves a forest trail with some elevation gain—wear sturdy boots.
Watch for lichen patches that can be slippery, especially on the upper pitches.
Start mid-morning to catch sun on the face but avoid afternoon glare.
Bring extra water and layered clothing due to variable alpine weather.
Standard trad rack required, with a focus on cams fitting medium to large cracks. Fixed anchors are limited; place pro carefully especially on lichen-smoothed sections.
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