"Place in the Sun carves a distinctive path up Garden of the Gods’ Southwest Face, inviting climbers into a measured test of balance and precision on delicate sandstone. Its single pitch demands careful footwork and respect for the fragile rock, promising a classic Colorado climbing experience."
Place in the Sun offers an intimate encounter with Garden of the Gods’ raw sandstone on its Southwest Face. Though a single pitch, this 5.8 sport climb challenges you with its thin holds and technical moves, presenting not just physical but mental tests amid the vivid Colorado air. Starting beneath the Finger alcove, the route requires a careful descent of about 10 feet before traversing to the first pair of pitons, steering clear from the closer chain anchors reserved for the neighboring Son of Tidricks climb. The line arcs fluidly, first moving right then bending back left in a smooth crescent, a flow that visually complements the rhythm of the climb. Here, two distinct cruxes demand respect: one between the second and third pitons where once-stable flakes have eroded away, and a second crux at the third piton where the holds demand precision. Despite the thinning edges, the foot placements are deceptively secure—often better than your instincts might suggest—as the rock’s texture provides enough friction to keep your feet planted. It’s essential to treat the rock carefully, especially beyond the last bolt to the top anchors where the sandstone flaking is fragile and easily damaged. Climbing when dry is non-negotiable; moisture turns these surfaces into unreliable hazards. Protection involves three drilled angles and two solid bolts leading to a three-chain belay with a dependable quicklink anchor, secured by seven quickdraws to ensure confident movement. The descent is straightforward: a single rappel from the belay bolt to the ground with a 60m rope. Conditions have made this classic climb a bit stiffer over recent seasons, nudging the difficulty upward as natural wear reshapes the route. For climbers looking to extend the challenge, a second pitch offers moves rated at 5.9, climbing further from the chains. This route melds the thrill of technical sport climbing with the vast, open feel of a Colorado sandstone face, a true offering for those who value finesse and focus in their ascent.
The sandstone past the last bolt to the anchors is extremely friable — avoid excessive pressure or brushing that accelerates rock loss. Never climb this route when damp, as moisture compromises grip and rock integrity. The approach to the rappel requires a well-maintained 60m rope; do not attempt with shorter ropes.
Avoid climbing when rock is wet or damp to prevent damage and slipping.
Use cautious foot placements as many flakes have eroded over time.
Rappel from the belay chain with a 60m rope—no walking off here.
Respect the fragile sandstone beyond the last bolt; avoid brushing or prying.
Gear up with seven quickdraws to clip the three drilled angles and two solid bolts leading to a three-chain belay equipped with a sturdy quicklink anchor. A 60m rope is needed for the single rappel back to the ground.
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