"Pirates de l'air challenges climbers with a sharp 75-foot limestone face near Quebec City. This single-pitch sport climb tests technique and trust in glue-in bolts, offering a direct line with crisp edges and thrilling movement."
Pirates de l'air is a compelling single-pitch sport climb that commands attention in the cliffs overlooking Lac Long, near Quebec City. The route lives up to its daring name, inviting climbers to embrace a bold challenge in the heart of Charlevoix’s rugged landscape. Ascending 75 feet of vertical limestone, this climb carves a swift path through pockets and sharp edges, demanding precise footwork and confident movement on steep terrain.
The rock gleams in the northern light, its texture offering both friction and technical holds that push your skills to a 5.10c level. The climb’s bolts are glue-ins, solidly embedded for safety, but require climbers to trust their placements fully—there’s no room for hesitation here. As you progress, you feel the wall’s character intensify, with the route’s protected nature ensuring flow but also challenging you to read the natural lines in the stone.
The approach is a straightforward hike from the central parking area of the L'Arène sector—a short, steady stroll through a mix of forest and boulder fields that primes your mind for the climb ahead. Upon reaching the base, the vertical face unrolls before you, a nearly blank canvas daring you to make your mark. This spot’s charm lies in its raw energy combined with the natural beauty of its surroundings; pine-scented breezes blend with distant waterways that echo the wildness of the area.
Pirates de l'air serves as both a rigorous climb and an accessible introduction to Quebec’s sport climbing scene. While the grade is certainly testing, the bolt spacing and solid protection help keep the boldness approachable. Six or seven votes have shaped its 2.9-star average, reflecting a climb that’s rewarding but demands respect for its technicality.
For those preparing to take on Pirates de l'air, consider sturdy climbing shoes that grip subtly sharp edges and bring chalk to manage the dusty limestone holds. Early spring through late fall offers the best conditions—dry rock and moderate temperatures allow for optimal performance. Avoid wet or freeze-thaw periods when the limestone becomes slippery and unpredictable.
Beyond the physical climb, this route connects you to a broader landscape marked by its conservation values and quiet beauty. The Charlevoix region blends accessible climbing with wilderness touches, providing a platform for adventure seekers who appreciate nature’s challenge without the frills. Whether you’re working through your lead climbing confidence or adding a solid 5.10c to your repertoire, Pirates de l'air offers a direct, memorable experience framed by forested hills and the still waters below.
Equipment-wise, a quickdraw rack and a single rope will suffice, but bring a helmet and remain vigilant for loose rock on the approach or descent. The rappel station is well-established, yet attention to gear setup ensures a safe return to the ground. This climb rewards focus, respect for the rock, and a balanced mix of adrenaline and skill.
Climbers should be cautious of occasional loose rock near the base and on the approach path. The glue-in bolts, while reliable, demand complete confidence; hesitating at critical moves can increase risk. Weather can change rapidly, so avoid climbs when the rock is wet or cold, as slip hazards increase significantly.
Approach via the marked trail from the central parking area for a quick and gentle hike.
Best climbed late spring to early fall when the rock is dry and weather stable.
Wear shoes with solid edging capability to handle sharp pockets and crimps.
Double-check rappelling anchors before descent to ensure secure setup.
This route relies entirely on glue-in bolts for protection, providing secure placements but requiring climbers to commit to moves confidently. A standard sport rack with quickdraws and a helmet are essential for safety.
Upload your photos of Pirates de l'air and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.