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Pine Straw - South Fork of St. Vrain Canyon

Lyons, Colorado United States
trad
crux
hand-stack
single-pitch
granite
Colorado
low-angle
forest
Length: 80 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Pine Straw
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Pine Straw delivers a compact trad climb in the South Fork of St. Vrain Canyon with a subtle but challenging crux tucked under a second ceiling. This 80-foot route is perfect for trad climbers looking to practice gear placements and movement on moderate granite with a quiet canyon vibe."

Pine Straw - South Fork of St. Vrain Canyon

Pine Straw is a concise yet engaging trad climb tucked along the South Fork of St. Vrain Canyon, offering a rugged encounter with Colorado’s granite sculpted by shifting currents and winds. This route, though brief at just 80 feet, challenges with a deceptively tricky crux that demands precise movement and confident gear placements. The opening section involves negotiating a low angle trough, where pine needles blanket the ground and the forest’s quiet keeps you grounded in the moment. Vegetation here is part of the climb’s texture, with a bush that subtly influences your move sequence early on—requiring a mindful approach to balance and footing.

The path swings right beneath the first ceiling, a moment that underlines the route’s rhythm before pushing toward the crux at the second ceiling. This section tempts with a hand stack option, demanding creativity and trust in technique. The crux move is more complex than its look suggests, a reminder that this route rewards careful reading of the rock and refined execution rather than brute force. Protection consists of a single set of cams, emphasizing the importance of placing gear with both security and economy in mind—particularly in this low-angle, irregular terrain.

Given the absence of fixed anchors at the top, descent strategy becomes part of the route planning. Climbers need to prepare for a tricky option: traversing either left toward the established Iced Tea anchors or right toward a gully’s edge for a safer exit. This decision depends on comfort with unroped travel and awareness of the surrounding terrain. The canyon’s environment pushes you to stay alert, blending the wildness of an alpine setting with the practical challenge of efficient gear use and route navigation.

Visitors to Pine Straw will appreciate its understatement: a 5.9- that’s approachable yet demands respect, perfect for trad climbers looking to refine their technical skills in a setting that feels quietly alive. The South Fork of St. Vrain offers more than just a climb—it's an invitation to engage with the rock and forest around you, to listen to the whisper of a breeze through the pines and the soft crunch of footfalls on ancient stone. This route makes a solid day project for a soloist or a pair seeking an immersive taste of Colorado’s sharp granite and forested canyons, away from crowds but close enough to Lyons for easy access and post-climb refreshments.

Climber Safety

Since there are no fixed anchors at the top, avoid rushing your traverse for descent—test all gear placements thoroughly and stay deliberate on ledges. Loose pine needles and a bush near the start add a layer of instability, so proceed cautiously in those sections.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length80 feet

Local Tips

Approach with sturdy climbing shoes and a brush to clear loose pine needles off holds.

Scout gear placements early on to avoid scrambling under the first ceiling with awkward placements.

Plan your descent route ahead—conditions on the traverse routes can vary with season.

Early morning starts help avoid midday sun exposure; the canyon can get warm and exposed.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9-
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9- rating feels fair but slightly stiff for the route’s short length. The crux isn't sustained but offers a tricky move involving balance and body positioning, especially if you opt for the hand stack technique. Compared to similar climbs in St. Vrain Canyon, it’s accessible for intermediate trad climbers but demands precise footwork and gear sense.

Gear Requirements

Bring a full set of cams, focusing on a solid set up to new #4/old #3.5 gray Camalot for reliable placements. There are no anchors on top, so be prepared to either traverse left to established anchors at Iced Tea or right toward a gully for descent.

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Tags

trad
crux
hand-stack
single-pitch
granite
Colorado
low-angle
forest