"Picket Line is a classic single-pitch trad climb in The Smoke Bluffs offering technical hand jams and a short, compelling crux. Its approachable grade and solid gear placements make it a great stepping stone for crack climbers looking to sharpen their skills amid Squamish’s granite walls."
Picket Line stands out as an inviting single-pitch route tucked within Boulder Gully, part of the iconic Smoke Bluffs climbing area near Squamish, British Columbia. This climb delivers a solid 100-foot push that feels approachable but offers enough nuance to keep your fingers alert. The route’s moderate 5.9- rating leans toward the easier side, making it an excellent choice for climbers stepping into more technical cracks without being overwhelmed. You’ll encounter a memorable hand crack that tightens into a lively corner, demanding precision jams and a controlled rhythm. Alongside, the left arete offers supplemental holds, giving climbers an alternate means to navigate the crux with grace.
The protection is straightforward but becomes sparse beyond the crux, coaxing you to trust your footwork and technique. The crack primarily accepts tight hand-sized gear where placements feel solid and reliable, although the final moves move into sections too pinched for protection. While this might give some climbers pause, the route’s short length and moderate difficulty keep the challenge balanced without glaring risks.
Accessing Picket Line is a manageable approach through Smoke Bluffs’ popular climbing grounds, with well-marked trails leading to Boulder Gully. The area buzzes with a quiet energy, framed by dense forest and granite formations that seem to watch over every ascent. For descent, a well-considered 70-meter rope is perfect for lowering down, especially from the nearby Supervalue anchor, which makes retreat efficient and safe. Toproping is a popular option here, as you can rig directional placements that enhance security for those not quite ready to lead.
This climb embodies the spirit of traditional climbing in Squamish—a mix of technical crack work, thoughtful gear placement, and a connection with nature’s raw slabs. It’s a climb that rewards steady hands and calm focus more than brute strength, making it a fine training ground and confidence builder. If you’re preparing for harder crack lines or want a memorable taste of Squamish granite, Picket Line offers an unpretentious but fulfilling afternoon adventure. Carry your standard rack of tight-to-hands cams, wear sturdy climbing shoes with good edging capability, and take your time to read the rock. The granite is forgiving but demands respect—especially in colder months when the holds feel sharper under chilled fingers.
Protection options thin significantly beyond the crux, making precise footwork and route reading essential. Avoid maxing out your ability to place gear, as the final section offers little room for error. Check anchor points carefully before rappel, and be mindful of loose debris on the descent trail.
Use a 70-meter rope for smooth rappels and lowering from Supervalue anchors.
Toproping Picket Line is an option by placing directionals from the anchors above.
Wear sticky shoes with solid edging to handle the varied granite textures.
Approach early in the day to avoid crowds and enjoy cooler rock conditions.
Carry a rack focused on tight hands to hands-sized cams, as the crack narrows quickly beyond the crux. The route’s protection is straightforward for most of the climb but tapers off near the top where placements become scarce.
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