Photophobia stakes its claim on the rugged west flank of Slhanay, just minutes from downtown Squamish, offering a compelling mix of technical crack climbing and tested face moves across three dynamic pitches. First ascended in 2011, this route has steadily earned its place as an essential challenge for climbers looking to push into the 5.10 range in one of British Columbia’s prime trad climbing zones.

The approach to Photophobia weaves through forested slopes that gradually bloom into rock, with the mountain’s sheer granite walls rising sharply overhead. The air here carries a crisp brightness, interrupted only by the distant craning calls of crows and the rustling of wind through fir needles. This climb pulls you deep into Slhanay's raw personality—sharp edges, firm granite, and a persistent call to precision.

Pitch one opens with a delicate, thin crack that demands focus and finger strength as climbers inch upwards. Transitioning to face climbing that arcs left before slicing right towards a corner crack, this section culminates in a brief, technical crux just before the two-bolt belay on a small ledge. The rope drag here can be sneaky, requiring careful gear management to keep tension minimal. Pulling through this first pitch sets the tone—engaging, demanding, but richly rewarding.

Pitch two takes you past a chimney section that feels like a brief reprieve with its easier moves, followed by a hand crack that leads to a well-earned ledge. Beyond lies the heart of the pitch: a sequence of laybacking and stemming on features lined with left-facing corners. These represent the sharpest challenges—cruxes that test both grit and technique before you reach another two-bolt belay tucked right of the pitch’s final corner. The quality of climbing here is top notch, with solid granite edges that seem engineered for stem and lieback maneuvers. Many climbers pause here, eyes tracing the line upward, wishing the pitch stretched on.

The third pitch returns to the corner system, a groove that climbs cleanly with sustained technical moves at 5.10a difficulty level. The crack’s flow feels smooth under climbing shoes, the subtle sound of your feet brushing granite granular texture grounding you in the moment. This pitch can be linked seamlessly with a fourth, shorter pitch that finishes the route with three carefully placed bolts guarding a brief but challenging final crux.

Protection is straightforward but demands a full Squamish rack up to 3 inches, with an emphasis on long slings to limit rope drag—particularly on the lower pitches where the line weaves significantly. Fixed belays are bolted neatly with rappel anchors, making descent efficient and secure. A 60-meter rope is sufficient, but a 70-meter stretch adds convenience for simul-rappels or lowering.

The climb’s West-facing aspect means afternoon sun warms the rock nicely, especially in spring and early fall when cooler temperatures prevail. Shade hugs the face in the morning, giving a comfortable chill that wakes your senses without stinging cold. Late summer sun can bake Slhanay’s granite under a bright blue sky; timing your climb for mid-morning to early afternoon strikes an ideal balance.

Descent is straightforward: double rappel from the fixed anchors down the route. The ledges provide secure stops, but be mindful of loose rock kicked up during rappel and the occasional narrow ledge that demands attention. Plan for clear weather and bring sturdy gloves for managing anchor chains.

Photophobia is well suited for committed trad climbers eager to fine-tune crack techniques with the added flavor of bolted face climbing. It’s demanding but fair—a multi-pitch adventure that rewards preparation, steady nerves, and respect for the mountain’s granite character. Whether aiming for a first 5.10c/d in Squamish or sharpening skills for harder routes down the line, Photophobia promises a climb rich in texture and challenge against one of Canada's most iconic outdoor playgrounds.