Rising sharply between the towering summits of Mount Abbot and Mount Mills, Petit Griffon offers climbers a chance to engage with a striking granite spire that demands both respect and focus. First ascended in June 1964 by Dave McDonald and David Harvey, this peak rewards those who push through a moderately challenging hike with an uncluttered alpine experience that blends classic High Sierra climbing with breathtaking surroundings.

The approach alone primes your adventure. Starting from the Mosquito Flats Trailhead at the end of Rock Creek Road off Highway 395 near Tom's Place, you’ll embark on a roughly 4.5 mile trek gaining close to 2,600 feet. The trail takes you through peaceful forests and high alpine meadows as you follow the Little Lakes Valley Trail, then transition along the Mono Pass Trail toward Ruby Lake. Here, hikers skirt the eastern shore through fields of broken talus, proceed cross-country past Mills Lake, and finally zero in on the spire itself. This route demands solid navigational skills, fitness, and an eye for terrain shifts that switch from well-defined paths to rugged scramble.

Petit Griffon’s iconic summit block towers at over 13,000 feet, offering climbers a concentrated dose of excellent granite climbing. The route to the western summit’s highest point involves a final 30 feet of vertical climbing rated at 5.7—classic Sierra granite that blends solid handholds with balanced foot placements. Following this section, climbers must prepare for a two-rappel descent: the first from the summit block down to a prominent ledge on the southwest face, requiring a 60-meter rope to reach safely. The second rappel takes you from a large, obvious horn down to the shoulder above the notch between the spire and Mount Mills. From there, a careful 3rd and 4th class downclimb returns you to the notch.

Safety and preparation here are critical. The granite is clean but expect the usual exposure and the need for solid anchor placement when rappelling. Because of the alpine altitude and remote location, weather can shift rapidly, so climbers should check forecasts before heading out.

Classic climbers will recognize the Southeast Face route, rated 5.7 and lauded for its high-quality rock and sustained pitch. It’s a compact but memorable climb that captures the spirit of traditional High Sierra granite ascents without overwhelming complexity, making it attractive to climbers comfortable with moderate multi-pitch terrain.

Gear wise, a standard rack for mid-range trad protection will cover the route, and a 60-meter rope is essential to manage the rappels safely. No fixed gear is mentioned, so all placements should be carefully evaluated on site. Approach shoes are suitable for the trail, but climbing shoes must be ready for clean, powerful granite moves where precision is rewarded.

Petit Griffon sits within the High Sierra, a protected zone known for its remoteness, pristine wilderness, and commanding views. The area offers a blend of serious alpine character and down-to-earth hiking, with a climbing terrain that sits comfortably between adventurous and accessible.

Timing your climb is crucial. The spire faces primarily southwest, baking in the afternoon sun, so early starts during the warmer months (July through September) will provide the best climbing conditions with crisp morning temps and pleasant midday warmth. Snow and wet granite in shoulder seasons can turn a climb into a risky gamble.

For those ready to explore a pure Sierra granite spire with a climbing history and solid rock quality, Petit Griffon promises an authentic mountain experience. The journey sharpens your skills, rewards in alpine grandeur, and respects the old-school style of Sierra climbing—direct, exposed, and exhilarating.

Further reading is recommended through classic guidebooks like RJ Secor's The High Sierra, Moynier and Fiddler's Climbing California's High Sierra, and High Sierra Climbing by McNamara and Long, which provide more in-depth beta and context for this unforgettable peak.