"Pennies and Piggydust is a compact trad challenge set in the rugged cliffs of Shelf Road. Featuring a key roof crux that tests hand jam and lieback skills, this route weaves grit and grace into a 50-foot pitch with approachable but precise protection needs."
Pennies and Piggydust carves a distinctive line along a sharp dihedral, wedged between two bolted faces known locally as "Project Focus" and "Poncho." This route challenges climbers with a bold, committing move roughly 20 feet above the ground. The key crux requires precise hand jams or a stubborn lieback maneuver to overcome a roof section that demands body control and focus. Beyond this, the climb eases into a short but satisfying sequence featuring an approachable offwidth near the top. The rock, while carrying a slight layer of dust and dirt, remains generally solid with only small patches of loose stone that pose little threat when handled carefully. A single pitch of 50 feet offers a concentrated burst of trad climbing packed with variety and subtle technical demands.
Approaching this climb means stepping into a rugged corner of Shelf Road’s infamous Bank area, a stretch recognized for its hidden variety and accessible trad lines. The setting is raw and direct, with the rock’s textures a tactile reminder of the canyon’s enduring forces. Climbers should come prepared with a single rack extending up to 4 inches, as the natural protection opportunities revolve around finger to hand-sized gear placements. The walk-off descent veers right, down a gully that offers an efficient and safe return.
The moderate 5.8- rating here feels honest, with the crux move bumping the sustained effort just enough to keep climbers alert. Unlike some routes in the area that rely on continuous holds or sport clipping, Pennies and Piggydust demands committed trad skills with a focused segment that tests body positioning and gear judgment. This climb suits climbers who appreciate a hands-on trad experience where each move matters, and leaving gear behind is not an option.
In terms of timing, early morning or late afternoon climbs work best to avoid the heat that can linger on the sun-facing walls of Shelf Road, especially in summer. Breathable clothing and hydration are essential, as the approach and route can sap your energy under Colorado’s dry sun. Expect the surrounding canyon voices—chirping birds, shifting breeze, and the occasional scrabble of loose rock underfoot—to punctuate your ascent.
Pennies and Piggydust is a short but memorable introduction to the wild trad routes here. Its single pitch holds enough intrigue to reward careful planning, solid gear placements, and a steady mindset. For those plotting a day in Canon City’s climbing corridors, this line beckons as a technical waypoint framed by straightforward logistics and a bold crescendo move that won’t soon be forgotten.
While the rock is generally solid, some small loose stones can be found—it's essential to test placements before trusting them and wear a helmet. The offwidth at the top demands proper technique to avoid skin damage, and the descent involves a loose gully where careful foot placement is vital to prevent slipping.
Start early or late to avoid the afternoon heat on the sun-exposed walls.
Bring tape gloves or finger tape for the offwidth section near the top.
Inspect gear placements carefully—some holds have dust that can reduce friction.
Use caution when descending the gully; loose rocks can shift underfoot.
Use a single rack up to 4 inches to protect the route effectively. Natural pro placements are solid in the dihedral and offwidth sections. No fixed gear is present, so rely on careful gear placement especially in the crux roof move.
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