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Peliculero at La Piramide: Taming the Roof in Northern Mexico

Durango, Durango Mexico
roof climbing
sport route
bolt protection
dynamic moves
exposed section
southern exposure
single pitch
Length: 82 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Peliculero
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Peliculero demands both finesse and courage as it stretches 82 feet along La Piramide's limestone face. Its standout roof section challenges climbers to master dynamic moves amid secure but bold protection, making it a must-try sport route in Northern Mexico."

Peliculero at La Piramide: Taming the Roof in Northern Mexico

Peliculero offers a sharp shot of adrenaline on the limestone cliffs of La Piramide, situated in the heart of Durango’s rugged landscape. This single-pitch sport climb stretches 82 feet along steep rock adorned with bolts and chains, inviting climbers to test their technical finesse and mental grit. The climb’s defining feature is a demanding roof section beyond the fifth bolt—a move that separates solid sends from the cautious retreat. Approaching this challenge, the wall progresses through solid vertical climbing before the terrain shifts into a bold, horizontal roof that demands precise body positioning and dynamic reach.

The route’s position in Northern Mexico means it basks in clear, dry weather most of the year, though early morning shade softens the heat on warmer days. The air here carries the subtle scent of desert scrub and warm stone, while distant mountain winds remind you of nature’s steady presence. The climb’s protection—arranged with well-maintained bolts—offers security, but climbers must respect the PG13 rating, especially given the risk of falls from the traversal between the fourth and fifth bolts. That stretch exposes the fall potential, making careful technique and confidence essential to avoid pendulum swings or harsh impacts on the wall.

Access to La Piramide is straightforward, perched just outside the city of Durango, allowing for an efficient approach that bypasses long hikes and technical approaches. The trail winds through dry brush and intermittent shade, with moderate footing suitable for sturdy footwear. Once at the base, the towering cliff commands respect, its texture rugged yet inviting, promising an intense, focused climbing session filled with movement variety.

For those preparing to take on Peliculero, hydration and timing are key—midday heat demands early start times, and layering options can make the difference between comfort and fatigue. A rope of 70 meters is ample, and a standard sport rack will suffice, but paying attention to clipping angles on the roof is crucial. Celebrated for its heady crux and compelling exposure, this climb thrives in the spirit of bold adventure, offering a rewarding challenge to anyone seeking to push their limits in this striking Mexican climbing destination.

Climber Safety

Be aware of the possibility of falls from the fourth to fifth bolt; the traverse can lead to pendulum swings, so ensure secure clipping and controlled movement. The bolts and chains are solid but remain vigilant around the roof section.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length82 feet

Local Tips

Start early in the day to avoid the afternoon heat that intensifies on the wall.

Use shoes with good edging to handle the varied limestone texture.

Pay close attention to clip positioning on the roof to reduce fall forces.

Hydrate well before and after the climb; the arid environment saps fluids quickly.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10d PG13
Quality
Consensus:The 5.10d rating fits with the sustained power needed to overcome the roof, which forms the crux of the climb. The PG13 suggests some potential for longer falls, especially during the traversing section between bolts four and five, making mental focus as important as physical skill. Compared to other local sport climbs, Peliculero stands out for its demanding roof and exposure.

Gear Requirements

The route is protected by bolts and chains, with solid placements up to the roof. Due to the roof’s nature and fall potential between bolts four and five, a standard sport rack and careful clipping technique are recommended.

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Tags

roof climbing
sport route
bolt protection
dynamic moves
exposed section
southern exposure
single pitch